Here’s the UWS Dish: Year in Review, One Through Fifty-Two

By Abigael T. Sidi

Many say that happiness is doing what you love and getting paid for it. Indeed, as a long aspiring journalist growing up in a hyper-foodie French household, writing “Dish” this past year has been one of the most joyful experiences in my life. But while my long passions for food and writing were the initial drivers for my plenitude – that and being able to enjoy tens of meals I’d otherwise never been able to afford – I quickly realized that my good spirits were materializing from something else.

It was intangible at first, but week after week, hearing story after story from chefs, owners and servers, I started approaching the column differently. The dishes were becoming a side product, almost an excuse for something much bigger, something defining: learning about my community. I was changing, opening my eyes and heart to the people I share my rectangle of a neighborhood with. I was staring at what hard work, passion, distance traveled, sometimes against all odds, really mean.

Food is such an effective vessel through which to break the ice with strangers, making that first connection. It beats any other form of small talk (i.e., the weather) out of the water. I’ve interviewed many amazing people for my work at my school newspaper, the Science Survey, and had learned that extracting stories, emotions, is one of the hardest things to achieve. Sometimes you even hit a wall, and the story suffers consequently, when it is not outright discarded.

But discuss flavors, textures, ingredients, technique, and even the shyest of the shyest, the grumpiest of grumpiest (and everyone in between) will start sharing an ever-so-tiny piece of their story, their motivations, what got them here, whether through success, failure, or both.

And so you have the former cook to the Vatican who exploded on the Bucharest restaurant scene before treating Upper West Siders to some of the best cannoli and espresso ever out of a tiny hole in the wall on Columbus.

You have the Bolivian immigrant who starts as a delivery guy for Old John’s in the eighties and ends up reviving and owning the place four decades later.

And you have a third-generation Sturgeon King hoping to pass the torch to a fourth; his competitor of a former Wall-Street guy turned herring-and smoked-fish master who refuses to hang it up; the deeply rooted UWS working mom who put her heart and soul reviving a neighborhood Mexican icon, transforming it into an enchanting pueblo-like setting and serving dishes inspired by Frida Kahlo; the Italian pizzaiolo, who was basically born in a bag of flour, and his Bolognese acolyte dishing out extraordinary Roman fare on an anonymous block — I could go on and on and on.

After 52 articles, this neighborhood has become a sea of familiar faces. I’ve never felt more attached to my community, with as many people to call my friends.

No matter which of the 52 restaurants you choose to visit (and don’t worry- there are plenty more to come), each one emanates the spirit that built this very neighborhood: Our community is your community.

Here’s a round-up of this year’s 52 dishes.

Kebab Aur Sharab’s Famous Butter Chicken: the creamy classic, but with a twist (chicken cooked in a tandoor), and executed to perfection for enchanting flavors (in a no less old Dehli setting).

Gnocchi on 9th’s Gnocchi alla Vodka (con Burrata): simple, rich, and just just super satisfying street food on the (relatively) cheap.

Kancil’s Kerang Gulai Tumis: new flavors, new textures, a street-food Malay clam dip that’s fun to share, with plenty more to discover on an ever growing and daring menu.

Song’ E Napule’s Pizza Napoletana: true Neapolitan style pizza, with the characteristic sogginess in its center and imported ingredients for big flavors.

Jin’s Kuro Tonkotsu Ramen: top quality noodles (thin, al dente, great spring) in a ridiculously rich pork bone broth spiked with charred garlic oil – your companion for the winter.

The Hungarian Pastry Shop’s Carrot Cake: one of many, well executed classics in a Viennese café-like atmosphere – escape-from-the-city guaranteed, and a great sleeper cappuccino.

Chama Mama’s Imeruli Khachapuri: a staple dish from a criminally underrated cuisine, this Georgian alter ego to Western pizza is all about its tangy cheese pull.

Friend of a Farmer’s Chicken Pot Pie: the great American classic executed to perfection and not shy in rosemary notes, in a chalet-like setting for a soul-warming, hearty winter meal.

Malka’s Charred Beetroot Carpaccio Covered in Horseradish Snow: clever use of the often-snubbed veggie, extracting its natural sugars through grilling, and a pop of horseradish for contrast.

Old John’s Tuna Melt Deluxe: an unusual ingredient, giardiniera, elevates the tuna mix for a great diner classic enjoyed in one of the UWS’s most iconic spots.

Westville’s Hamburger: an unapologetically meaty burger served at a chain otherwise known for its focus on vegetables. High quality beef.

Noi Due Cafe’s Creamy Green Shakshuka: vibrant green spinach is front and center in this nutritious take on a great Middle-Eastern brunch classic.

Two Wheels’ Vietnamese Wings: pungent, sweet, sticky and spicy, a fantastic aromatic twist on the American bar classic.

Sal & Carmine’s Pizza(s) : the epitome of NYC pizza, with no-fuss classic pies expertly crafted by Sergio Martinez and his “brother” Cesar. My readers give it a lot of love.

Daily Provisions’ B. E. C. – Classic vs. Lumberjack: NYT-recognized, delicious twist on a classic breakfast sandwich where the donut-like “cruller” replaces the bagel for a sweeter bite.

Osteria 106’s Carciofi Fritti (Fried Artichokes) : beautiful take on the crispy and earthy, Roman Jewish artichoke, carciofi a la guidia, elegantly served in a Parmesan basket and enjoyed with lemony aioli.

PopUp Bagels’ Bagels and Schmears: love them or hate them, the trendy chain offers solid, always warm bagels with a creative set of original schmears.

Pig & Khao’s Roti Tacos: exclusively found at the UWS location, these Filipino/Southeast Asian tacos are loaded with flavor for a bright and tasty meal. High energy neon décor and vibe. 

Barney Greengrass’s Pastrami Reuben (With a Side of Schmaltz Herring) : who said Barney Greengrass’s fleischig wasn’t worth the bother? (But don’t be a meshuga and order a side of smoked fish or herring.)

El Fish Marisqueria’s Lobster Aguachile: generous portion of impeccably executed, delicate lobster meat served on bed of sharp, zesty sauce made of peanut butter and lime juice.

Mille-Feuille Bakery’s Vanilla Mille-Feuille: phenomenal execution on an all-time French classic pastry, known in the U.S. as napoleon. You can count the thousand leaves.

CASASALVO’s Cannoli and Maritozzo: delicious, authentic Italian pastries and cappuccinos brought to you by an eccentric and extremely lovable ex-cook to Pope Ratzinger. Need I say more?

Leyla’s Pide (Turkish Flatbreads) : the tasty, Turkish pizza alter-egos but, really, you should try everything at what I believe is the UWS’s best Mediterranean restaurant, including any of the four pides.

Super Nice Coffee and Bakery’s Donuts: colorful, good-looking, rich and tasty donuts tucked away on 108th. On weekends, get there early (ideally at store opening).

Chick Chick’s Fried Rice: Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated Korean fast food, with a perfect (i.e. satisfying) egg-topped fried rice and awesome fried chicken sandwiches.

Raenu Thai’s Beef Salad: low-key hole in the wall Thai joint that serves a great value beef salad (nice char on the steak, fresh and bright greens, generous portion.)

Covacha’s Flautas: Frida-Kahlo-cookbook-inspired, flute-shaped crunchy chicken tortillas served on a bed of killer tomatillo and guajillo salsas. Enjoy this showstopper in an enchanting pueblo decor.

Sempre Oggi’s Cappelletti with English Peas, Butter and Lemon: refined and highly seasonal Italian cooking; the cappelletti shine by their simplicity and bright lemony undertones.

Bustan’s Moroccan Fish: branzino filets, tomatoes, chickpeas and Moroccan spices steamed in a clay pot wrapped in pita dough, tagine-style. Crack open for soft, delicious flavors and impeccably flaky fish.

Café du Soleil’s Moroccan Sandwich: the “merguez/frites” of the UWS, with top notch sausages and fries. Have it while watching the 2026 World Cup, ideally the French team, for a memorable experience.

Amélie’s Ravioles du Royans: the famed mini-ravioli from the Dauphiné, stuffed with comté (winter) or goat cheese (winter), are a star on the menu at this very French, neighborhood bistro-bar à vins.

Sala Thai’s Pad Thai Bolan: a fun twist on the classic noodle dish, wrapped inside an egg nest. The prawns are plenty, big and juicy, as is the noise at this trendy, well decorated Thai spot.

Nai Brother Sauerkraut Fish’s Naige Sauerkraut Fish: bold, bright, spicy, yet highly complex and nuanced aromas for a succulent bouillabaisse-like dish. Mesmerizing flavors for my culinary discovery of the year.

Yasouvlaki’s Tylikta: you loved gyros; wait till you try them with the fries encased with the meats in the pita! Not to mention Yasouvlaki’s fries have fresh lemony undertones; a fabulous lunch sandwich overall.

Community Food and Juice’s Avocado Toast: two ingredients send it over the top: the Clinton Bakery bread and sprinkle of fat pumpkin seeds, both toasted to perfection.

Motorino’s Baby Kale Caesar Salad: majestic, just slightly creamy and entirely covered in parmesan snow, my favorite Caesar on the UWS is the perfect side dish for their top-notch Neapolitan style pizzas.

Patis Bakery’s Campfire Croissant: gimmicky but well executed cross between the French croissant and American s’more, a highly satisfying pastry for your afternoon coffee.

Osteria Accademia’s Vitello Tonnato: the classic Piemontese surf-and-turf is hard to find these days but Accademia does it sooo well: fresh veal slices topped with a creamy tuna mayo and tasty caper berries.

The Consulate’s Lamb Tartare: bold, unapologetically raw, hand-cut lamb filet is a magnet for the neighborhood’s carnivores. With limited seasoning and condiments, the dish is all about the meat.

Plum’s Shrimp Bahn Mi (With a Side of Kimchi Fries) : a Vietnamese take on the NoLa po’boy, the shrimp are seared to perfection and the sandwich can be savored in a quaint atmosphere.

Bosino’s Pizza (Boscaioloa, Prosciutto and Elisa) : brick-oven baked, topped with imported ingredients and served to you by the great Salvatore, some of the very best pizza around; under-the-radar gem.

Eshel’s Lamb Arayes: charred, crispy, zaatar-seasoned pitas filled with juicy lamb patties, these Persian sliders are delightful, especially when dipped in Eshel’s superb amba (spicy/sour mango sauce)

Murray’s Sturgeon Shop’s Herring (Schmaltz, Matjes, and Pickled in Cream Sauce) : it turns out I recently had Russ and Daughter’s versions and they, too, can’t hold a candle to Murray’s.

Moshe’s Falafel’s Sabich (With a Side of Falafel) : luscious beyond belief; just make sure to free your calendar for at least an hour after you’ve had it – 45 minutes, minimum — for  recovery time.

Nan Xiang Express’s Crab Meat & Pork Soup Dumplings: very solid and good value crab/pork dumplings with seriously succulent juice, on par with Mott Street’s joints. A welcome addition to the neighborhood.

The Smith’s Smith Burger (With Complimentary Extra TSB Sauce) : best burger on the UWS and they’ll give you extra TSB sauce for free. A reader accurately called it ambrosial, and I got to learn a new word.

Kossar’s BLT on a Bialy: thicker and chewier than toast but lighter and crunchier than a bagel, the bialy might be the perfect vessel to the perfect BLT.

Charles Pan-Fried Chicken’s Plate of Pan-Fried Chicken: hours on hours of pan-frying the bird instead of throwing it in the deep fryer, for over five decades no less, results in a truly exceptional fried chicken.

Jacob’s Pickles’ Poutine: this year’s “final boss Dish,” a Southern twist on the Quebeccian classic fries drenched in melted cheese and gravy; the “invite your friends” disclaimer tells you all you need to know.

Cafe Luxembourg’s Bibb Lettuce Salad: light, fresh and crunchy, and seasoned with a delightful tarragon/buttermilk dressing, the perfect posh salad to be seen while eating it.

Simply Noodles’ Scallion Oil & Mushroom Noodles: tight, thin, springy dan dan noodles seasoned with a fragrant aromatic sauce, the dish exudes more and more umami as the ratio of noodles-to-sauce shrinks.

Wave Hill Breads’ Wild-Yeast Sourdough Miche (and Sfogliatelle): my Hannukah/Xmas present to my readers, a well-kept secret known to Upper/Upper West Sides is now in the open.

Read all Here’s the UWS Dish columns here.

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