Here’s the UWS Dish: Two Wheels’ Vietnamese Wings

By Abigael T. Sidi

Attention, wings lovers: the Upper West Side has an offering that will leave an indelible mark on your palate and fingers. You can find these uber-tasty wings at the hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese spot, Two Wheels, on Amsterdam Avenue, between 80th and 81st streets. 

The key ingredient, used in both the marinade and coating for Two Wheels’ Vietnamese Wings, is the fish sauce, a staple Asian condiment made of anchovies and other small fish covered in salt and fermented for up to two years. The Vietnamese variation (nuoc mam) may be less salty and pungent than its Thai counterpart, but it still registers as a bold challenge to our western palates.

Once you get past that initial, potent burst of flavor, you will relish the wings’ tenderness and savory, sweet, and sticky caramel sauce.

In an interview with the Rag, Two Wheels’ owner Jimmy W. shared the story behind the recipe, a creation of well-known chef Jonathan Vu. “Vu, as everyone calls him, is a first generation American Vietnamese who was born in Louisiana, a common destination for many of the Vietnamese immigrants who arrived in the country. The dish showcases both his mom’s Vietnamese culinary culture and his own Southern U.S. roots, giving rise to his personal take on an American classic.”

Asked to elaborate on the recipe, Jimmy shared that “the wings are marinated for 48 hours in the Three Crabs brand Vietnamese fish sauce, together with cayenne pepper, garlic, and onions.” They are then “coated in corn starch mixed with classic wings seasonings. (The dish is gluten free.) Once cooked, the wings are drenched in Vu’s signature Vietnamese caramel glaze, a reduction of fish sauce, brown sugar and agave.” Finally, they are “topped with cilantro, scallions, fried garlic, and sesame seeds.” 

Two Wheels, which Jimmy said was named after “the most common mode of transportation in Vietnam, the bicycle,” has been quite the talk among my fellow students, who rave about their super generous yet reasonably priced Pho and Banh Mi offerings. The Pho is indeed sensational, with unusually large amounts of sirloin steak, and, last but not least, an amazing, melt-in-your-mouth brisket ($13.95 or $15.95 depending on number of meats).

The restaurant offers an intentionally low-key dining experience, with just a few tables scattered in a rather nondescript room. Jimmy said that “with the exception of the Pho, Two Wheels is entirely structured for casual, on-the-fly Vietnamese cuisine.” With that said, leave a Google review at the counter and Two Wheels will treat you to free dessert, a delicious tiramisu that will help soothe your tongue after the mighty wings experience.

In addition to the wings, other gluten-free options are available, as well as vegetarian alternatives for most dishes. Two Wheels is open every day from 11:30 a.m. till 9:30 p.m. (10:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays). 

The Dish: Vietnamese Wings (half dozen, $11.95; dozen, $18.95)
The Restaurant: Two Wheels,  426 Amsterdam Avenue (between West 80th and 81st streets)

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