By Abigael T. Sidi
It’s cold outside, time for soup!
To me, warm, hearty soup is synonymous with a Japanese pork bone noodle soup, known as tonkotsu ramen, served at Jin on Amsterdam Avenue between West 82nd and 83rd streets. And as my palate has become more adventurous, my go-to has become the “kuro” (black) version of the soup, in which chef Shuichi Kotani spikes the broth with a dash of scorched garlic oil (or, as the Japanese call it, “mayu”).
I was hesitant at first: transitioning from classic to kuro tonkotsu meant spoiling the immaculate, deep-ivory bone broth, which requires an intricate two-to-three-day prep involving precision at every step. While the addition of the black garlic oil did indeed ruin the broth’s appearance, it also transformed the dish. The soup retained its creaminess and silkiness, but gained an earthy, charred-firewood layer of flavor that just clicks in wintertime.
In addition to the mayu oil, the kuro tonkotsu incorporates grilled shishito peppers, accentuating the dish’s charry flavor and providing an extra spicy kick (the peppers are HOT and can be served on the side). The toppings are otherwise similar to those served with the classic tonkotsu: slices of braised pork belly (“chashu”), boiled egg, shredded scallions, nori (seaweed) leaf, and sesame seeds. You can add an extra crunch to the soup with the addition of soy-marinated bamboo shoots ($2.50). Other toppings include baby bok choy, bean sprouts, enoki mushrooms (each for $2.50), and, for the super hungry, extra noodles – thin, straight, or curly (all $4.00).
Speaking of noodles, Jin’s are revered throughout the city for their authenticity. They are of the traditional, thin-firm-chewy type, reminiscent in texture of al dente pasta and offer a meatier slurp compared to the often pre-packaged, spaghetti-type noodles served at your average ramen spot. Chef Kotani, co-owner of Jin, is a renowned soba noodle master who demonstrates his techniques on the YouTube Noodle Network channel.
Non-pork broths are also available (chicken, vegetable). They are lighter than the tonkotsu, but also delicious. Jin is often packed at lunch, especially during winter months when wait time can extend beyond 40 minutes. The place has a pleasant Japanese chalet feel and noise levels are manageable. Walk-ins only, take out and delivery available, open for lunch (11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.) and dinner (5 p.m.-10 p.m.) daily.
The Dish: Kuro Tonkotsu Ramen ($21)
The Restaurant: Jin, 462 Amsterdam Avenue (between West 82nd and 83rd streets)
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I like what you did there with the side by side comparison, helpful! This guy’s noodles are fantastic, in the summer time try some of his cold soba dishes. In the running for best in town
I feel like Jin’s broth has lost in depth recently. Not as creamy as it once was. But agreed 100% on the burnt garlic, really elevates the soup, gives it great character. And the noodles remain my primary reason to go
Wholesale pricing of the “depth” ingredients probably increased, or a chef de soup ain’t paying attention.
the photo shows two bowls of soup, each $21—is that correct?
Hi Geoff, thank you for your comment on my column. The classic tonkotsu is $2 cheaper ($19).
I wish they had some g-free rice noodle options.
Hi Edith, thank you for your comment on my story. Yes unfortunately rice noodles do not appear to be available, would be a great addition. They have rice bowls but, to my knowledge, no gluten-free options when it comes to the soups
I just had this dish the other day…was not impressed. The addition of the black garlic oil just turns it into a one-note salt lick. Better to stick to other broths there, or better yet, go to Zurutto on 72nd instead.
I appreciate this blog giving attention to small businesses in our neighborhood, but Jin is pretty mediocre ramen. It’s hardly worth mentioning in the long list of ramen places in the city.