Here’s the UWS Dish: Osteria 106’s Carciofi Fritti (Fried Artichokes)

By Abigael T. Sidi 

Desperate for some shade while visiting the Jewish Ghetto in Rome on a family trip last summer, we stopped by a tiny town square where a small, unremarkable trattoria had a couple of tables available.

There, I experienced one of those culinary moments that lasts a lifetime: “Carciofi Alla Giudia,” the Roman staple, “Jewish-style” artichoke, where the vegetable is deep fried in olive oil and served as if a crispy open rose. A simple dish (three ingredients if you count the lemon and salt seasonings), but a splendorous one, with a flavor and texture that left an indelible mark on my palate. 

The other night, in New York, I paid closer attention than usual to the antipasti menu at our Upper West Side gem of an Italian restaurant, Osteria 106, located in the spot previously occupied by the beloved Gastronomia Culinaria (on West 106th Street near Central Park). We go there often, and focus so exclusively on their homemade pasta dishes that appetizers are typically none of my concern. Most of the antipasti are what you’d expect: burrata, bruschetta, fried calamari, and the like.

But an item stops me in my tracks:  “Carciofi Fritti”… Could it be?  

I ask our server, Torino-native Andrea, and she confirms with a gorgeous Italian accent, “yes, the inspiration for this dish is the Roman Carciofi alla Giudia, except we use quartered artichoke hearts instead of the whole artichoke.”  

Say no more, I’ll have that.   

Perhaps as a tribute to the original dish, the shape and size of Osteria 106’s carciofi fritti recall that of the open whole artichoke I had in Rome. The deep fried hearts, generously covered with parmesan slices nearing their melting point, are presented in a delicate parmesan crisp in the shape of a basket.

Beautiful.

As with the Roman dish, the artichoke bite is crispy yet juicy, and seasoned with a hint of lemon that helps deliver the veggie’s deep, earthy, and subtly sweet flavor. (Osteria 106 uses Meyer lemon, a cross between mandarin and lemon, whose subtle orange undertones make for an interesting twist on the classic.) The nutty and tingly parmesan crisp pairs beautifully with the artichoke, both in flavor and texture, and dipping in the silky garlic/lemon aioli brings it all home.

Sure, Osteria 106 is off the beaten path and most will have to make the trip, but, like Rao’s in East Harlem, that’s part of the charm.

“The current owners, both Italian, knew Melissa, the owner of Gastronomia Culinaria, so when it closed, they wanted to make sure the tradition would continue,” said Andrea. Indeed, the attention to detail, focus on specials, intimate atmosphere, loyal customers, (and, according to my parents, great value Italian wines), all of which made Gastronomia Culinaria so special, are still here. In many ways, Osteria 106 is a seamless continuation of its cherished predecessor. Its success led to the recent opening of a sister restaurant, Osteria del Porto, at the South Street Seaport downtown. “But if you ask anyone they will tell you the food is best here,” claimed a proud Andrea.

Osteria 106 is perfect for romantic dates: casual-elegant and intimate, with noise kept not to a murmur but to very civil levels. The restaurant is open for dinner only on weekdays, from 4 p.m. till 11 p.m., and open for brunch and dinner on weekends, from 12 p.m. till 11 p.m. Take-out and delivery are available from 4 p.m. till 10 p.m. 

The Dish: Carciofi Fritti ($20) 
The Restaurant: Osteria 106 (53 W 106th  Street, between Manhattan and Columbus Avenues)