By Abigael T. Sidi
Bold Flavors. Big Portions. No Regrets.
That’s how Nai Brother took to Instragram to kick off a new operation on the UWS, the funky-named Nai Brother Sauerkraut Fish, located just steps away from the Columbia/Barnard crowds they likely hope to catch in their net. As for me, they said all the right words; I took the bait with zero resistance, dashing to the place within minutes of viewing the post. They did not disappoint.
I ordered their superstar eponymous offering, the classic (“Naige”) Sauerkraut Fish, not really knowing what to expect other than this was not an improbable combination of fish with hotdog or Reuben-type sauerkraut. A quick internet search prior to heading out identified pickled mustard greens, not fermented cabbage, as the defining ingredient of Sauerkraut Fish, a Sichuan dish otherwise known as Suan Cai Yu. (The dish’s origins are not exactly clear but in Chinese folklore, Suan Cai Yu was born after a Chongqing fisherman accidentally dropped his catch in his wife’s pot of boiling pickled greens.)
I opted for the one-person, small-size portion, and even that was A LOT: a large and deep soup bowl filled with a steaming broth, noodles and veggies, topped with sliced fish filets. The fragrance and scents emanating from the massive bowl were borderline spellbinding so I dug right in.
First, I scooped the steaming broth. It was a rich, almost silky, highly savory soup (I’m guessing a mix of fish and chicken stocks) and the complexity of flavors was nothing short of astonishing. Sourness, pungency and heat hit one by one, but in a beautifully balanced way. The pickled mustard greens and Sichuan peppers combine with traditional Chinese aromatics (ginger, garlic, green onion) to deliver this explosion of flavors, one of most complex and delicious tangs I’ve experienced.
The other defining ingredient is sliced fish filets briefly poached in the broth just prior serving. Many types of fish can be used, and Nai Brother offer a choice of two: “sole” (which I’m guessing is what they call tilapia, my choice for the day) and snakehead fish (a bit more expensive). The fish is cooked amazingly well, with a delicate velvety texture that only poaching can deliver. (I learned this from my French grandmother, who uses the technique with monkfish, which she then serves with potatoes and a simple mayonnaise.)
To their broth and fish, Nai Brother adds veggies (cabbage, bean sprouts, green onions), as well as several stripes of tofu skin for a playful rubbery texture, and wide glass noodles for a delicate extra chew. All the ingredients work so well together, adding up to an amazing culinary experience and definitely one my top discoveries of 2025. Great, great fragrance all around.
About halfway through the dish, the fiery Sichuan peppers and chiles start to catch up to you, and your entire body turns hot. That’s when a side of rice ($2.95) can come in handy, and I recommend the purchase if you intend to finish your meal on the spot. You can also opt for the Yangzhou fried rice, which is as delicious and well executed as that offered by Atlas Kitchen’s across the street. However, the only portion available goes for $16.95 and I’m guessing is meant to feed a table of four.
The mysterious team behind Nai Brother Sauerkraut Fish gained notoriety in Long Island City, where their original restaurant, Nai Brother, has built a loyal following by specializing in generous and tasty Sichuan stews and soups, including the marvelous sauerkraut fish. All we know of them is briefly shared on their website: “Nai Brother has spent more than 20 years perfecting these components for his pickled mustard fish soup, and his dedication to his craft was respected throughout his township in Southwestern China.”
The UWS outpost’s interior is as impersonal as it gets but that’s not why you’re here. Everyone is focused on their gargantuan plates so it is nice and quiet, for a change. The restaurant is open every day from 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., and I will call it without any hesitation the best late-nighter in the neighborhood. Take out and delivery available at these times.
Bold Flavors, big portions, and no regrets indeed. Hook, line and sinker!
The Dish: Naige Sauerkraut Fish with “sole”, one-person portion ($14.95)
The Restaurant: Nai Brother Sauerkraut Fish, 2817 Broadway (between West 108th and 109th streets)
Subscribe to West Side Rag’s FREE email newsletter here. And you can Support the Rag here.
This sounds delicious. Didn’t know about this place–thanks for introducing us to it!
I never wanted to try it before. Now I definitely will.
There is a website with a menu
https://www.naibrothersauerkrautfish.com/
Ten soups. Not anything I would eat but seems appropriate for the Columbia crowd.
With all those flavors you describe, this either going to be boom or bust. I’ve learned to trust your recs, will give it a shot
We just had it this weekend at the strong recommendation of a friend. Agreed with everything in this fabulous review, BUT as good as their eponymous dish is, the dry pot here is easily its equal if not better (we got the fish with fatty beef and tofu added). Get both for one of the best meals on the UWS!
This is an excellent sort of dish for a cold day (at least in the versions I’ve had, there’s not a ton of fat in it, so it is zippy and warming but not too heavy). Respect to those who will eat a hot soup in this weather, though!
Not in a million years would you convince me to try this dish, but that fried rice looks legit!!
I feel like this place is a gem! The name was borderline-turnoff, but the food has been excellent both times that I’ve been there. Dare I say…the best Chinese in the nabe?
Honestly I didn’t care for it and would not go back. The people were very nice and yes the portion was good . But try it if it appeals to you.
Woah, what a thoughtful, thorough review of this dish. Thanks for allowing us to live vicariously! I’m there as soon as the weather cools enough to make hot soup sound like a good thing. 🙂
This place came out of nowhere as far as my food horizons are concerned, but it is absolutely a gem