Here’s the UWS Dish: Pig & Khao’s Roti Tacos 

By Abigael T. Sidi 

The always trendy Pig & Khao, which initially opened in 2012 on the Lower East Side, has been a widely acclaimed fixture for tasty Filipino/Southeast Asian street food in the city. A few months ago, chef, co-owner, and former Bravo Top Chef star Leah Cohen, a born and raised New Yorker of Filipino and Jewish Ashkenazi descent, opened an outpost on the Upper West Side, located on Amsterdam Avenue between West 80th and 81st streets.  

Here, her team serves something new and only available at the UWS location, “Roti Tacos,” in which Indian roti bread (a thinner cousin of naan) replaces the traditional tortilla, and the fillings are Cohen’s Southeast Asian tributes to several Mexican taqueria classics. Back in February, right after opening, chef Cohen told the Asian Journal, “We’re taking roti, like a tortilla, and filling it with things you’d find on the streets of Bangkok or Manila.”

I had to give these tacos a try.

The “Roteria” section of the menu has four offerings, of which I chose the vegetarian option and two of three available meats. With one exception (see below), the tacos are served in cute individual trays in which the roti is already folded taco-style to rein in the large amount of filling (two tacos is way more than enough for a meal). 

Starting off with the Chicken Satay ($11), the bite was a savory balance of tender grilled chicken dices and crunchy crushed peanuts and pickled cucumber, onion, garlic, and chilies, all pairing beautifully with the soft, lightly chewy roti. A surprisingly easy (not too spicy or bold) and satisfactory taco where the ingredients worked in harmony and the airy roti was sturdy enough to avoid any filling overflow.

However, to me, the true star of the show was the vegetarian taco, Papas Con Rajas ($9). The filling, mainly consisting of soft potato chunks seasoned with a creamy blend of pickled tomato spread, cilantro chutney, and vibrant Thai basil leaves. There must be something more to this delightful dish, some secret ingredients or spices, because the layers were incredibly deep and complex. Papas con Rajas translates to potatoes and “slices”, with the latter typically referring to strips of poblano peppers… Does anyone know what I’m missing?   

Last but not least was the beef taco, which Cohen named Murtabak after the popular Southeast Asian and Arab stuffed flatbreads she first discovered on the streets of Thailand and Malaysia. In this one instance, the filling – curry-seasoned ground beef and egg –  is sandwiched between two rotis which are pan-seared on each side and served quesadilla style. This taco alone ($16) – crunchy, meaty, greasy, and just outright decadent – is plenty for a meal and the perfect replacement for a classic hamburger. It is served with briny “Ajat”, the same pickle mix as served on the chicken taco.

The one taco I didn’t try (but absolutely will on my next visit) was the Moo Ping Al Pastor ($12), a tribute to the eponymous Mexican staple, with a promising filling consisting of barbecue pork, grilled pineapple, and chicharrónes. The taco is seasoned with Thai jaew sauce, so I anticipate it to be spicier than the relatively mellow varieties I tried so far. 

Pig & Khao, with its playful food, neon decor, and bustling and loud street food vibe, is perfect for a fun night out with friends. Those looking for a romantic date or a more intimate conversation may opt for a table on the sidewalk, away from the action. The restaurant is open for dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. from Wednesday to Saturday and 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. from Sunday to Tuesday. Pig & Khao is frustratingly not open for lunch during the week, but on weekends, they do serve brunch from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Take-out and delivery are available. 

The Dish: Roti tacos: Papas Con Rajas ($9), Chicken Satay ($11) and Murtabak ($16). 
The Restaurant: Pig & Khao (433 Amsterdam Avenue, between West 80th and 81st streets.)