By Abigael T. Sidi
Most countries have their iconic dip and dipper combinations. Mexico’s guacamole and tortilla chips, the Middle East’s hummus and pita, and our own ranch and crudités come to mind.
Now, famed Malaysian chef, Simpson Wong, has created a Malaysian dip, with three intriguing dippers, which he introduced with the opening last month of the new restaurant, Kancil, at 434 Amsterdam Avenue (West 81st Street), taking the place of Wau.
In an interview, Wong told the Rag that his creation — a tasty clam dip named “kerang gulai tumis” — harkens to “the authentic Malaysian street food I aspired to return to as I turned 60.”
Found in the “Small Plates” section of the menu, the kerang gulai tumis, which translates to “sauteed cockles stew,” consists of “chopped softshell clam meat immersed in a slowly simmering broth of clam juice, lemongrass, ginger, garlic, shallots, soy, star anise, shrimp paste, chiles, and sugar,” Wong revealed.
The clams are tender and the broth is both sweet and sour. The dip is somewhat reminiscent of a Manhattan clam chowder, but with the added tang provided by the lemongrass, anise, and chiles. Like a good chowder, it is also comforting and an ideal snack for wintertime.
As for the dippers, there’s a lineup of three: Endive leaves (highly effective); light and colorful tapioca crackers; and, my favorite, a pair of uber-flavorful, bite-size turmeric sticky rice balls. These are seasoned with “flash-toasted turmeric, galangal, garlic, and tamarind, then mixed with shredded coconut for texture,” Wong shared. They pair beautifully with the clam dip.
“Kancil,” which refers to a small, witty mouse-deer often featured in Malaysian folklore, is Wong’s “return to his roots,“ he explained. “I was presented with the perfect opportunity to provide a platform for the country’s underappreciated culinary diversity, that is, to challenge diners with dishes…other than beef rendang and other such staples of the usual Malaysian top 10.”
When asked if he had plans for future additions to the menu, “more seasonal and vegetable dishes” was Wong’s first answer. He also teased us with “seafood cooked in a bag,” “kohlrabi pickles,” and “sweet potato croquettes.”
Takeout and delivery are available; open for dinner only from 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
The Dish: Kerang Gulai Tumis ($17)
The Restaurant: Kancil, 434 Amsterdam Avenue (at West 81st Street)
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Can’t wait to try this restaurant. I was a huge fan of Wau and hope Kancil opens for lunch as well.
Now that sounds tasty!
Looks like a nice find, and the flavor combos look rare and interesting. I remember this chef being popular back in the day (prior to the pandemic), he had a great restaurant in the Village (Aesan) that ran for 2 decades then suddenly disappeared. Great addition to the neighborhood for sure!
Your description about Kerang gulai tumis really brought all the flavors to life. This dip sounds amazing and would love to try it right away! It’s terrific how Chef Wong is bringing authentic Malaysian street food flavors to New York. I find the combination of lemongrass, ginger, garlic and star anise so comforting. I completely love turmeric rice and the rice balls sound like a great combination to the dip.. Kancil’s on my list and definitely visiting soon 🙂