By Abigael T. Sidi
So what if I already spilled the beans on Rag Radio? I said it then and I’ll say it again: In the picture above, you’re looking at the best burger on the UWS, if not the entirety of New York City. Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the one and only Smith Burger, a creation of the eponymous, 18-year-old, NYC-born brasserie franchise, The Smith.
The Smith’s UWS location, right across from Lincoln Center and immediately adjacent to Fiorello’s (on the prime Broadway block between West 63rd and 64th streets), was the initial reason the restaurant became my family’s “quartier général” (HQ). Over the years, it remained that way, first and foremost because of the criminally underrated quality of the food (not just the masterpiece burger, but the entire menu). Whenever we’re in the area, or even when we’re not but are too lazy to research a place to eat, The Smith is the no-brainer, unanimous family pick.
The Smith Burger ($28), which you can watch being assembled here, consists of the following ingredients: 7-ounce beef patty, cheddar, bacon-shallot jam, crispy onions, kosher dill pickles (A LOT of slices, arranged as a two-story rosette), and last but certainly not least, the “TSB sauce” (more on that later). The burger is not to be confused with the single other burger offered on the menu, the Burger Royale ($26), which is the more traditional lettuce/tomato/pickles/ketchup/mayo variation and is also delicious, but not the same. Veggie patty substitutions are available for both.
Now to the Smith Burger experience: As with any oversized burger, I like to go with the classic technique. The approach, which I shared with Claire Davenport when we visited The Smith for Rag Radio, involves flipping the burger upside down prior to the bite, the theory being that the thicker top bun (“crown”) absorbs the juices and supports the structure better than the thinner bottom bun. With Claire as my witness, the inverted burger technique – which my Dad continues to claim, against all evidence, is one of mankind’s all-time strokes of genius – is wholly ineffective against the Smith Burger. Still, it’s tradition, so that’s how I go.
For months, I’d been struggling to find the correct qualifier to do the Smith Burger justice. “Luscious” had already been taken by Moshe’s sabich, and even that failed to convey the burger’s outright greatness. As I was about to give up and resort to the overused “decadent,” Rag commenter John saved the day, coming up with “ambrosial.”
Ambrosial: The word describes something exceptionally pleasing to the senses, especially food and scents, meaning it is divinely sweet, fragrant, or delicious. It derives from “ambrosia,” the mythical food of the gods, and is used to evoke a sense of sublime perfection or a luxurious, delightful quality.
Ambrosial, the Smith burger absolutely is. The patty is thick and exceptional in its beefiness: fatty, juicy, drippy, and always perfectly cooked to your liking. Its flavors are craftily balanced by the nutty melted cheddar, the sweet crispy onions, and silky and subtly acidic shallot marmalade, while the heavy load of pickles and lettuce bring a beautiful, crunchy freshness to every bite. We haven’t even yet gotten into what truly sets the Smith burger apart, and elevates it to ambrosial territory. That ingredient is none other than the creamy, tangy, ultimate burger sauce named after the dish: the TSB (The Smith Burger) sauce, which it is front and center in the picture above.
By the looks and taste of it, you’re thinking garlic aioli, but the TSB sauce has something extra. While I failed to get the exact recipe from Smith personnel, whom I peppered both in person and online, the TSB’s ingredients are listed on the franchise’s ordering platform for everyone to see: mayo, roasted garlic, habanero and red wine vinegars, Dijon and lemon. We are currently trying to recreate it at home, and getting close – the habanero vinegar is key.
The sauce – which ties the whole thing together and resolutely gives the burger its character – is so good that we often ask for an extra to use as a dip for the Smith’s delicious, Belgian-style shoestring fries. The Smith will be happy to provide it for free, a rarity in a city where joint after joint charges $5 to $10 for any of its steak sauces. This is a testament to The Smith’s “say yes” culture and a widely underrated aspect of The Smith experience.
The Smith is a masterfully executed NYC spin on the classic French brasserie, with an iconic industrial/subway tile décor and bustling, no-fuss, but at the same time sophisticated and trendy ambiance. Like many traditional Parisian brasseries, the restaurant is open early til late, from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 8 a.m. to midnight on Friday; 9 a.m to midnight on Saturday; and 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday, with pickup and delivery available at these times.
Best burger in town – I dare you to say I’m wrong!
The Dish: Smith Burger ($28.00)
The Restaurant: The Smith, 1900 Broadway (between West 63rd and 64th streets)
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That looks amazing! ok, $28, do they take SNAP? oh wait, my SNAP is cut off anyway, I guess I’ll have to pass on the amazing burger.
And you might mention that when you open the door to enter the restaurant you are greeted by a wall of sound.
What sound?
Hi Julia: thank you for your comment on my column. You’re right, it’s loud, which I tried to convey with “bustling”. Lunch during the week is way calmer though!
Well, The Smith is trying to emulate Balthaza, though I guess there are fewer models to the ibankers to hit on.
It must be because of that subway style decor that The Smith is the noisiest restaurant in the city. I don’t care how good the food is. And I’m not the only one. I know quite a few people who have gone once and sworn never again.
To me the noise is part of the charm, it’s intrinsic to the Smith “experience”. But yes, it’s loud. That burger is a phenom though, try to hit it on a weekday lunch – more relaxing.
The one time I was going to try this place I turned around and left after walking through the door and being met by that “wall of sound”.
Many restaurants promote a high noise level to encourage table turnover, but Smith was way too much to be tolerable.
No burger is worth that discomfort. Besides, PJ Clarke’s, just a block away — and even closer to Lincoln Center — makes a notoriously fine burger, without subjecting the diner to the din.
We love The Smith – the ambrosial Smith Burger as well as almost all of its other offerings – but we only eat there when it’s warm enough to sit outdoors; sadly, the deafening noise indoors (at all their locations, thanks in large measure to the tiles and other hard surfaces) makes conversation impossible. Unfortunately, our next Smith Burger will now have to wait until next spring.
I’m glad you addressed the eponymous sauce. but pass and pass the ketchup please thank you.
Hi Sal: thank you for your comment. Did you try the TSB? It is sooo tasty, you can switch ketchup/TSB/ketchup/TSB!
A food column and word of the day all in one. Rag is raising the bar
Hi Dan: thank you for your comment! I just couldn’t pass on ambrosial, and I’m glad you liked it!
Glad others mentioned the noise. It’s so loud that a pleasant conversation is impossible.
Congrats on your post. If memory serves, I had the very first post on Here’s the UWS Dish – and it was about The Smith’s macaroni and cheese. Sadly, I don’t eat burgers, so I won’t be able to try this “ambrosial” extravaganza.
I will simply add that The Smith is my go-to place on the UWS; they make so MANY great dishes. And in addition to bringing lots of family and friends there, I have had my birthday dinner there for at least the past six or seven years.
Dear Ian: thank you for your comment, and it is a true honor! I hope the column continues to do you justice, it was such a great idea. I became a fan real fast.
And yes the mac&cheese is ridiculous. Their entire menu, in fact, is very underrated – the moules/frites, for instance, is sensational, they really capture the essence of the recipe and the dish is on par with the French brasseries in the neighborhood. It’s my mom’s go to, and we always end up soaking our leftover fries in the sauce!
As someone who enjoys a simple diner burger from time to time (cheese, ketchup, maybe some fried onions), I’ve never understood how one is supposed to eat a “fatty, juicy, drippy” 7-ounce meat edifice like the one pictured, especially in company. Dislocate your jaw like a snake? Use a fork and knife, deBlasio style? Nibble around the edges? Squeeze hard to compress the height, thereby showering your tablemates with fat and pickle juice? What’s the secret?
Dear Carmella: than you for your comment! I usually enjoy my burger with family, for a reason. As I said, even the “genius” inverted technique is futile against this burger. I start with my hands, then switch to knife and fork, then go back to mu fingers for last pickings. It’s a mess regardless, but so good.
You’re right, Smith Burger is special, right up there, but city-wide?? Have you tried Minetta Tavern’s?
Dear Schmoul: I have not but I’ve heard of it… Are they the ones that mix bone marrow with the meat?
Th e Smith is a horrible neighbor. Puts garbage on residental street instead of Broadway and has a 4 AM pickup with food left on street for the rats. I am sure the dining room is full of criters also.
Dear John: I’ve been to the Smith regularly for a solid decade and never have I seen a critter running around. The restaurant is pristine in my book. Sorry to hear about the garbage disposal issues
Fewer adjectives.
Is the beef grass fed?
Hi Jay: thank you for your question. I’m not sure, will inquire.
Is the pizza “dough” at Fiorello’s still made with Crisco?
I had this burger many times… it’s much too much and I can only get through half of it.
$28.00 definitely worth it!
Smith can be called the “American Brasserie”…
Bon appétit‼️
Zohran Mamdani eats at The Smith Restaurant 🍔🥤
Love the Smith, huge fan of this burger, can they bring an uptown location to the 90s please?? A competitor for the fiercely overrated/overpriced JP perhaps??
I’m a little skeptical about the “best burger in the city claim” because there are some excellent alternatives, e.g. Jackson Hole, JG Melon, Corner Bistro, Burger Heaven. A superlative claim needs more comparison to competiton. Also, Ms. Sidi’s focus on the accoutrements/garnishes/toppings belies a possible lack of appreciation for the burger itself. I’m sure the Smith has a very good burger. But I’m not sold on it’s supremacy. Also, eating meat is terrible for your health and for the environment. Go vegan or go home! 🙂
Hi Jon: thank you for your comment! Apologies if I didn’t spend enough time on the burger itself. I did want to highlight the sauce because it does, in my view, really elevate the burger, and is a great dip for the fries. It is super tasty and wanted to make sure my readers knew they could get a free extra.
So far nothing beat the Burger Joint .it used to be around 76th Street and Broadway, northwest corner. Such a simple little hamburger place that turned out one winning burger after another.
This was yet another piece by Abigael at West Side Rag that makes me yearn to live in the neighborhood! Abby has a true appreciation for its cuisine. Her search for new flavors, inspired by her culinarily inclined parents, gives this review an authenticity and homeliness that I can relate to. I look forward to trying this burger for myself. Thank you Abby for a great recommendation and please keep them coming!