Here’s the UWS Dish: Plum’s Shrimp Bahn Mi (With a Side of Kimchi Fries)

By Abigael T. Sidi

Tucked away on West 94th Street, off the corner of Broadway, Plum is easy to miss. But don’t miss it, because this small, quaint, little gem of a Vietnamese restaurant is a great place to enjoy the cuisine’s classics in a quiet, soothing atmosphere. It’s one of my favorite spots for a serene yet super tasty lunch.

While the signature crispy duck pho is my go-to during winter months, I’ll often visit in the warmer months for one of the bright, crunchy salads, generous bun bowls, or a simple yet always fresh bahn mi (the iconic Vietnamese sandwich, a post-colonial fusion of the French baguette with local ingredients as filling).

But regardless of my main course, I will always, always order a side of kimchi fries, to which I’m terminally addicted. (And, if I’m being really honest, the real reason I visit.) Even if I’m having pho, I’ll shamelessly order my kimchi fries, dip them in the hearty beef broth, and devour them entirely.

What I like most about ordering a bahn mi is that I cannot be blamed for the kimchi fries – sandwich and fries, nothing unusual to see here. Plum does not serve the classic-of-classics banh mi, which uses pork as protein (whether grilled, as a sausage or cold cut). Instead, you can choose between grilled or curry chicken ($15 and $18), grilled beef ($16), salmon ($22), shrimp ($20) or, for a vegan option, seasoned tofu ($14).

I like the shrimp bahn mi – it’s the Vietnamese equivalent of the Big Easy’s po’ boy, and Plum executes the delicate shellfish beautifully. Flash-seared and deshelled, they are cooked just right, meaning barely (they remain slightly translucent with a nacre/pinkish color). Always super fresh, the shrimps’ briny and mildly sweet undertones come through, along with a hint of lemongrass. The bite is exquisite, tender with a very slight snap.

“The shrimp is my favorite, too,” shared Emily Wannupratham, a three-year server at Plum. “The owner is actually from Thailand, but she has an obsession with Vietnamese food; she really wants to make it well.” The Thai influence does show up in the menu, with several curries available, and Plum’s crispy duck pho feels like a fusion dish to me.

The shrimp pairs beautifully well with the spicy mayo, crunchy cucumbers and pickled shredded carrots, the crispy and fluffy French baguette (supplied daily from local bakeries), and, most of all… you guessed it:  the kimchi fries!

Why the adoration for these fries? It’s hard to explain; sometimes, a dish just works. These are by no means your superior fries from a French or Belgian grandmaster. (See Cafe du Soleil, for example.) They’re more of the diner/fast food type of fry: classic American cut, solid crisp, flavor, and fluffiness, but in themselves, nothing special. Likewise, the kimchi is not the type that blows you away with over-the-top pungency, heat, or personality. Here, it merely delivers a gentle, bright and prickly acidity. And the spicy sauce – “mayo, sriracha, sweet chilis; that’s all I know,” Wannupratham said when asked about it – is gentle, silky and tasty, but again, not necessarily out of the ordinary. However, combine these three ingredients and you have a bomb of a side dish, with great clashes in textures and flavors, just a yummy savory treat for the palate! I guess I’d best describe it as a Vietnamese/Thai twist on the French-Canadian poutine.

Plum’s interior is peaceful, small yet open, with a few plants hanging here and there, and quiet notes of piano jazz playing in the background. The restaurant has its regulars and “the business is steadily growing, a lot of people come for the crispy duck pho,” Wannupratham said. But my lunches there have always been relaxing; it’s an ideal spot for conversations with friends or job interviews and the like.

Plum is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every day, with pickup and delivery available until 9:15 p.m.

The Dish: Shrimp Bahn Mi ($20) and Kimchi Fries ($9)

The Restaurant: Plum Vietnamese Restaurant, 210 West 94th Street (between Amsterdam Avenue and Broadway)

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