By Abigael T. Sidi
Once neglected, root vegetables, such as turnips, rutabagas, and, today’s focus, red, juicy, surprisingly sweet beets, are experiencing a renaissance. Beyond their widely recognized nutritional value, beets are versatile, used in dishes ranging from soups, such as Eastern European borscht, to salads, to beef-patty substitutes in some of the meatiest and juiciest vegan burgers around.
Owned by a true veggie lover, Malka, the Israeli kosher restaurant on West 72nd Street, offers its own take on beets with its “Charred Beetroot Carpaccio Covered in Horseradish Snow.”
An appetizer, this dish showcases the beet’s best attributes. To maximize their sweetness, the roots are charred to concentrate the good sugars, hinting at caramelization. Then, they are thinly sliced into rose-petal-like slices (as you would a classic beef carpaccio), and laid on top of a shiny golden tray, accentuating their vibrant color. Lastly, they are sprinkled with olive oil, coarse salt, and, with a touch of genius: tiny crystal-like pieces of white horseradish on top to give each bite a refreshing pop.
Malka’s owner, celebrity chef Eyal Shani was inspired by his grandfather, “an agronomist and dedicated vegan,” according to Malka’s website, who exposed him to “local markets, fields, and vineyards from a young age,” while he was growing up in Israel. A few decades later, Shani’s love for veggies permeates his whole menu, from the simple, yet expertly crafted appetizers to the roasted whole vegetables that accompany his fish and meat entrees.
The restaurant observes Shabbat and is closed all day Friday and opens only for late dinner on Saturday nights (9:00 – 10:30 p.m.). On Sundays, Malka is open for brunch (11 a.m. – 2 p.m.). On weekdays, it is open for dinner only (5 – 10 p.m.). The vibe is that of a trendy, bustling, even festive Israeli spot: the music is catchy and upbeat, the crowd is young, the staff ends the night singing and dancing behind the bar while serving the occasional free shot. You get it, the place is LOUD, not meant for a relaxing, intimate night out.
The Dish: Charred Beetroot Carpaccio Covered in Horseradish Snow ($13)
The Restaurant: Malka, 161 West 72nd St (between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenues)
Hmmm that looks interesting! Beet plus horseradish is a combo I wouldn’t have thought of, will probably give it a try!
It would be nice if the WSR would publish the recipe.
I think the point is for people to venture out to try the dishes at these wonderful restaurants, not to make them at home!
Malka is expensive but the food and crew is full of joy and love. They have this hummus bolognese that’s also super innovative. Their staple schnitzel is good but not worth the astronomical price, I think around $50. And yes, I’ve seen them swing free shots of arak to patrons. Fun place, party place, NOT for the quiet night out. Nice to have a solid kosher spot around
Finally, the first kosher restaurant review in WSR history. Malka is great, not cheap (can’t think of any kosher restaurants that are, even pizza!). My husband and I went here for our anniversary dinner — it is a noisy noisy place so not a romantic vibe, but great energy and very lively. The food was fabulous. The mashed potato filled schnitzel was an enormous portion and so yummy, and the green beans with lemon zest were a delightful surprise. Disappointing no pita! But great hummus.