By Abigael T. Sidi
Acting on a tip, I made my way on a frigid January afternoon to the Upper West Side locale of Chama Mama, the trendy Georgian restaurant that initially opened its doors in Chelsea in 2019. My mission was to try the country’s signature cheese-stuffed bread, khachapuri. My tipster’s directions were clear: “There are variations, but I prefer the basic dough and cheese (no beans, eggs, etc., thank you).” Indeed, my target was the purists’ version of the dish, known as Imeruli khachapuri, from the Central-West Imerati region.
I expected the khachapuri to resemble a bread or pizza, but it reminded me instead of a French Galette des Rois in its golden, puff pastry-like appearance and texture, with luscious melted cheese substituting for almond cream as filling. The bite was simultaneously light, hearty, and very delicate in flavor, with just a hint of tartness provided by the briny melted cheese that struck the right balance (children will LOVE it). The experience is not unlike that of enjoying a well-crafted quesadilla or cheese spanakopita: a savory snack that is simple but very gourmand and addictive.
In an interview with the Rag, chef Nino Chiokadze said that “the Chama Mama cheese blend was inspired by the taste of my childhood. Growing up in Georgia, rich, authentic cheese was always a part of our meals, and I wanted to bring that same warmth and nostalgia to our dishes. To recreate those flavors, we carefully blended a few different cheeses to craft our signature blend.” While an insider at the UWS location spilled the beans on two of the ingredients (mozzarella and feta), the Georgian cheeses that are key to the blend “remain secret”.
Georgians often say that “there are as many khachapuris as there are kitchens in Georgia.” In addition to the traditional Imeruli khachapuri, Chama Mama offers varieties as mentioned above. There are also other traditional dishes to discover at Chama Mama. Georgian cuisine is widely considered the most refined among countries of the ex-Soviet Union; it was the one haute cuisine available to the Soviets following the reign of Stalin, a Georgian native. However, the restaurant itself is laid-back, charming, but unpretentious, operated by a wonderfully attentive and accessible staff. Vegetarian options are available (the Chama Mama salad, with fermented sprouts, arugula, cucumber, and red onion, is fresh, tasty, and works well as a side dish for the khachapuri).
When asked about the name “Chama Mama,” chef Chiokadze told the Rag, “In Georgian, “Chama” means “to eat,” and, as we all know, “Mama” is a universally recognized term for “Mother.” The name reflects our core values … which honor the deep connections between food, hospitality, and the nurturing spirit of Motherhood.” Oddly enough, though, “Mama” in Georgian translates to “Dad”, while “Mom” translates to “Deda”, which is pronounced…“Dad”!
Takeout and delivery available; open for lunch and dinner (12:00 p.m.-10:00 p.m.) daily; brunch served 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. on weekends.
The Dish: Imeruli Khachapuri ($17)
The Restaurant: Chama Mama, 373 Amsterdam Avenue (between 77th and 78th streets)
Looks great, and thanks for the historical perspective. I was unaware that Georgian cuisine was so highly regarded, will pay them a visit. What are the sauces (chutneys?) next to the khachapuri?
Hi Dan: thanks for your question! It’s the “Trio of Ajikas”, which are condiments/sauces. There’s a plum sauce, a walnut/onion chutney and last but not least, the Ajika with Sunflower Oil, which is a harissa made of “dry red chili peppers, minced garlic, dry coriander and other Georgian spices”. I spread it on the pie and it gave it sensational spicy and deep garlicky undertones. Highly recommended!
thanks Abby, much appreciated. Carry on!
The Georgians are legendary for their food. Try their spatchcocked chicken.
Fascinating background! If you feel a little more adventurous, the phkalis (vegetable and nut dips / salads) are truly lovely, as well, and the khinkali (like enormous soup dumplings) will warm you from the inside out on a cold day. Just be aware that most of the food on the menu will have you slaying vampires with your breath for a good 24 hours after. Good first date food as it will keep away the riffraff.
Thanks for this shout-out to Champ Mama and to Georgian cuisine. I’ve had a couple of very good meals at the restaurant, and liked other types of khachapuries. I’m embarrassed that I don’t remember which one, though. The country is at the very top of my travel bucket list! In addition to their very interesting food, they have a rich musical culture, most especially their deep-voiced men’s choirs. They have an alphabet that, to me, resembles the Armenian alphabet; I don’t know if the Georgian language is similarly related to Armenian.
This part of the world seems to me more exotic and less traveled than countries in Asia that are further away. By the way, is it in Europe or Asia?! I’ve gotten kind of off-topic! Anyhow, it’s a shame that Georgia’s most well-known citizen is Stalin, the country has so much else to recommend it.
Wrong.:) Georgia’s most well-known citizen is Khvicha Kvaratskhelia.
Noone under 40 knows who Stalin is, much less in this country.
I love taking visiting family and friends here, it’s always a big hit! It’s like the comfort food that most Americans have never tried. The staff is always super friendly and happy to explain the dishes. I’ve had many special nights here that my guests still talk about… a great neighborhood spot we are lucky to have
Chama Mama is a gem! Usually the first place I take out of town visitors. The Georgian wines are super interesting and unique as well!
Went there for the first time Saturday. We’ve been to many Georgian restaurants over the years but never got to this one, which is nice because we can walk to it. We absolutely loved it. Everything was amazing. We opted for the boat style khatchpuri but we’ve had one like the picture before in other places. Let them stir the egg! Also liked the Georgian amber wine and it’s smokey, scotch like flavorings.
Heading over there tonight and thanks for the heads up!
thanks for an enticing column, many here including me know little of Georgian cuisine, seems like the perfect spot to give it a try. That linguistic “reversion” at the end (Mom/Dad vs Deda/Mama) is a beauty, though I’m unsure the languages have much in common. terrific column!
sounds sooo yummy! i’ve been following this column religiously and this might be the first time the debbie downers have taken a pass! looks like a sure bet for brunch next weekend!!
Love this place! Great food, great atmosphere.