By Abigael T. Sidi
Acting on yet another tip, I made my way north of Lincoln Center to one of the oldest diners in the city, the iconic Old John’s Luncheonette, which has operated for three quarters of a century. Located at the corner of West 67th Street and Amsterdam, Old John’s is easy to miss: too far up the block to be readily spotted from the neighboring Apple Store on Broadway, and, making matters worse, the front is currently hidden by scaffolding.
My tipster did not point to a specific dish to try, instead describing it as “a legendary place,” but warning that “lately there have been comments that it is declining.” That didn’t seem to be the opinion of the crowd there the Saturday I visited; the place was jam-packed at noon with a waiting line outside.
Whenever in doubt, especially at a diner, my go-to is the pastrami sandwich, BLT, or tuna melt. The former wasn’t available on the brunch menu and, for some inexplicable reason, I wasn’t in the mood for bacon, so I went for the tuna.
The sandwich, big, generous, and flashing a beautiful cheese melt, had my mouth watering. At first bite, I froze and thought to myself “Wait, this might be the best tuna sandwich I’ve ever had.” It was moist, creamy yet atypically light, with the right touch of sweetness. But there was something else going on. The sandwich had some sort of spark, a really tasty, briny feel to it. It wasn’t the cheese, a traditional New York state mild cheddar, and no sauce had been slathered on the perfectly grilled sourdough. I was unsuccessful getting any info on the recipe, which the server claimed has not changed since 1951.
However, a quick Google search retrieved the secret: they apparently chop giardiniera, an Italian relish of pickled vegetables, and incorporate it into the mix. Genius!
The melt is served with a top notch half-sour pickle, and $4 extra will get you a side of perfectly acceptable French fries (making it Deluxe). I washed the whole thing down with a delicious – but not cheap ($9!) – home-made malted vanilla milkshake (the restaurant says all ice creams are made on site). There was no room left for any of their famed pies, French toasts, waffles, buttermilk pancakes, and other sweet offerings other patrons were feasting on at tables nearby.
The history of Old John’s traces back to the second half of the twentieth century and early 2000’s, when a number of neighborhood and ABC studios celebrities were among the place’s most loyal customers. However, Old John’s was an early casualty when the COVID virus hit, resurrected less than two years later solely thanks to a nostalgic former delivery person, Bolivian native Louis Skibar, whose first job in the US was at the luncheonette (back in 1984).
Skibar went on to become a successful NYC restaurateur, opening approximately 20 restaurants throughout the city and resurrecting other diners in Manhattan and Brooklyn. When the place reopened in 2021, Skibar changed the name from Luncheonette to Diner, though Google searches still largely return the former appellation, and the restaurant’s website simply refers to itself as “Old John’s.”
Old John’s is open every day from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., take-out and delivery available. True to diner culture, the menu is vast and includes a number of vegetarian and vegan options.
The Dish: Tuna Melt ($15), with French fries supplement ($4)
The Restaurant: Old John’s, 148 West 67th Street (between Broadway and Amsterdam)
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Legendary it is, was a semi-regular back in the day, you’d see the likes of actors like Tony Danza or TV journalists (Peter Jennings comes to mind). Haven’t been there in years and it looks from the pic that it went through a serious renovation. Bar used to be diner classic L shape. A little hesitant to go but I don’t see how I can resist that killer-looking sandwich!!
It’s definitely worth going back. They took over the shoe store next door and it’s a lot more open and airy! Plus, the diner counter is really nice to sit at.
What have we come to that a tuna melt with “perfectly acceptable” fries is $19. Do they have egg salad sandwiches? With all the talk of rising egg prices does it cost over $20?
LOL
Yes, it is in decline. I ordered pancakes for breakfast recently and the pancakes crumbled as I cut them. It was a big mess on my plate. Hard, frozen butter was unspreadable. The bacon was like shoe leather and the coffee, lukewarm. Shockingly disappointing all around. Then I paid the bill.
The new Old John’s is cute.
And nice that some of the original staff are still there.
But do miss the original Old John’s .
The owner Manny was so kind, and especially to our kids and elderly relatives.
It was a warm neighborhood spot – not an Instagram “must do”….
I noticed they didn’t take down their shed as required by the new law. (Unlike most, theirs is quite attractive with comfortable, private booths.) Maybe it’s more profitable for them to pay the fine, if the city is even aware of the violation, than to lose the extra seats since there is usually a line to get in. However, whatever the reason, they shouldn’t be above the law just because they can afford to ignore it.
Yes, they were very late in taking it down but it is gone now.
I believe the current rules allow you to operate a dining shed as long as you have filed the paperwork.
I was an audio engineer for the ABC radio network in the early 70’s when the studios were located at 1926 Broadway (directly across from Lincoln Center). John’s was at its old location a few blocks up on Broadway and their delivery men made regular visits, quickly darting in and out of the newsroom, studios and editing rooms in a rush to get to their next delivery. More than once they barged in to a “live” studio and radio listeners from coast-to-coast would hear “Hello, John’s!”
we’re blessed to have lots of good ole diners on the UWS. Have you tried Cafe 82?
Yes, to Cafe 82. Haven’t been there many times (yet) or tried many things, but their French onion soup with its thick blanket of melted cheese is the best I’ve ever had. AND they are open ’til midnight! Remember when we were the city that never sleeps? Or at least could stay up late? Curtailed hours during the pandemic never returned to their original glory for all sorts of commercial venues …sad for us night owls.
Old John’s Luncheonette was a charming name. The new one is less memorable.
“Wait, this might be the best tuna sandwich I’ve ever had.”
Just before the pandemic I went on a search for the best tuna salad sandwich in my neighborhood which runs from Lincoln Center to 79th Street. Westside Restaurant won that contest hands down. Did think Old John’s even came close.
I am beyond excited to try this, the tuna melt being one of my favorites. I have to say that I have no clue about this place despite walking through this neighborhood frequently. Maybe I never turned down 67th? But I will now. Oh, and a vanilla malt is another favorite that can be hard to find. I plan to go this weekend!
Oh I had that for lunch a few months ago. It was delic.
Before the pandemic I used to go there for their wonderful chicken pot pies — homemade, piping hot, and so delicious!
I haven’t been there since the pandemic but hope to go soon. We had a meeting there once a week which stopped after the pandemic so I haven’t been in that area but hopefully soon and regularly!