Here’s the UWS Dish: Nan Xiang Express’s Crab Meat & Pork Soup Dumplings

By Abigael T. Sidi

It’s getting chilly, and this is the time of year when my cravings for steamy ramen, pho, and soup dumplings flair up. Luckily, the Upper West Side is replete with options, with Nan Xiang Express being one of the latest additions to what Eater refers to as the neighborhood’s booming “Chinese Corridor” (between West 98th and West 113th streets).

Nan Xiang Express, located on Broadway between West 107th and 108th streets, is one of five “fast-food” offshoots of the celebrated Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao restaurant in Flushing, Queens. Nan Xiang, a Shanghai suburb, is where xiao long bao (literally, “little steamer dumplings”) are believed to have originated, and NXXLB has always prided itself on serving the “city’s best soup dumplings,” as described by the Michelin guide for nine consecutive years. While NXXLB lost its prestigious recognition a while back, I was certain the dumplings would be worth the trip — and not only because they go for $10-or-so bucks for a serving of six.

Nan Xian Express offers a selection of four types of soup dumplings: the traditional pork ($9.95) and crab-meat-&-pork ($10.95), as well as chicken and beef variations ($10.95 each). After a short hesitation, I opted for my long-time favorite, the crab-and-pork, which admittedly sacrifices on pure meatiness but offers more complexity than the plain pork.

The wait was a little longer than anticipated (I’d say a solid 10 to 15 minutes), but at last the dumplings arrived. They’re served fast-food style in a cardboard bowl instead of the traditional bamboo basket, along with a classic no-fuss dumpling sauce (a blend of Chinese black vinegar and soy sauce, no minced ginger in this one). The dumplings were steamy but not the crazy-hot type where waiting five minutes can mean the difference between leaving the place with your mouth intact or with your tongue and palate “burned/ripped to shreds.”

Yes, like many, I’m sure, I learned the hard way that enjoying soup dumplings is first and foremost about technique. Here’s my six-step foolproof protocol (you’ll thank me later):

1. Start by gently seizing dumpling by its tip using tong or pliers (if provided) or with the tip of your fingers;
2. Transfer dumpling to dumpling spoon (if not provided, request);
3. Using your teeth, perform a slight incision on one of the fat sides of dumpling;
4. The best part: after a few blows through the small opening to cool it down, drink up all the good juices from dumpling; reach culinary heaven;
5. Swallow up dumpling from spoon and slowly finish it off, feasting on the savory filling and delicate dough;
6. Repeat five times.

Done this way, I have no doubt you’ll enjoy Nan Xiang Express’s dumplings. The expert thinness of the dough and generous fattiness of the pork and crab juices are absolutely top notch — the kind where you stop using the vinegar sauce after dumpling  No. 1 to avoid interfering with the dish’s beautiful fragrance.

Like its close neighbor Nai Brother Sauerkraut Fish, my culinary discovery of the year, Nan Xiang Express is open late (til 1:30 a.m.) and has become a rallying spot for night owls and party goers in the area. This crew, largely made up of students, also raves about Nan Xiang’s scallion oil noodles, which to me felt like a lo mein down to its simplest form, with minimal seasoning and just a few shreds of mushroom for a hint of umami. It was too “pure,” perhaps, for my palate, so I went ahead and poured some of Nan Xiang’s complimentary chili oil, as well as the rest of my dumpling sauce, onto the noodles to boost the fragrance, resulting in a simple but tasty dish you could equate to a Chinese spin on the Italian midnight spaghetti (olive oil, garlic, hot chili pepper flakes). Simple, cheap ($9.25), and yummy!

In addition to dumplings and noodles, Nan Xiang Express offers a large selection of dim sum and Shanghainese classics, all reasonably priced. The joint’s decor is minimalist to the bones but that’s not why you’re here. Nan Xiang Express is open from 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. every day, with pickup and delivery available at these times. To avoid fees, you can use the restaurant’s commission-free platform.

The Dish: Crab meat & pork soup dumplings ($10.95)
The Restaurant: Nan Xiang Express, 2783 Broadway (between West 107th and West 108th streets)

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