Here’s the UWS Dish: Covacha’s Flautas

By Abigael T. Sidi

When I was growing up, family visits to the American Museum of Natural History meant lunch at the Columbus Avenue-West 77th Street Shake Shack or, better yet, its Mexican neighbor, the beloved Café Frida, which my sister and I decided had the best guacamole on the Upper West Side.

Of the many restaurant casualties of the pandemic, Café Frida really hurt: A piece of my childhood was gone. However, owner Cristina Castañeda, a self-described “deeply rooted, Upper West Side working mom,” quickly resurrected the place in March 2021, making it both prettier (more on that later) and closer to her roots, focusing on the cuisine of her childhood from the western Mexican state of Jalisco.

To cover Covacha, I had initially set my sights on the guacamole, envisioning a walk down memory lane. That is, until my eyes encountered a spectacular dish, brought to a table nearby, that looked nothing short of a piece of art. “I’ll have that,” I announced.

The dish in question was the flautas, tacos rolled in the shape of a flute (hence the name) set on top of two bright salsas, one red (guajillo), one green (tomatillo). The flautas, which were topped with crema, Cotija cheese, radish and cilantro, had a fantastic crunch to them, giving way to a tender, spicy and smoky filling of shredded chicken. “The chicken is simmered in an adobo made of garlic, chipotle purée, bay leaves, dried oregano, tomatoes, and onions (…) to absorb all those complex, smoky flavors”, said Karla Cobo, Covacha marketing and events director, through an email exchange. “[Our flautas] are inspired by Frida Kahlo’s personal cookbook and the recipes are by Lupe Marin, Diego Rivera’s first wife.”

As delicious as the flautas were, they were only half of the dish. The true stars of the show were the salsas, red and green, which were incredibly well executed. The red/orange guajillo salsa had a gentle, slightly fruity and tangy, sweet smokiness to it, with a wonderful depth of flavor and creamy texture. Equally as silky but with a raw, beautiful acidity and heat was the tomatillo salsa, whose sourness and pop somehow struck the perfect balance. While both salsas worked as great condiments/dips for the flautas, I soon found myself treating them as if they were gazpacho — full tablespoons straight into my mouth!

Impressed by the execution on the salsas (Covacha received a well-deserved Michelin Bib Gourmand), I begged Cobo for the recipes. “We have a few abuelita (grandma) secrets, but we’re happy to share the basics,” she said. “For the Salsa Verde: Jalapeños, tomatillos, garlic, white onion, cilantro, lime juice, and avocado for that creamy texture. For the Guajillo Salsa: onion, garlic, guajillo chiles, salt, and oil. The key is carefully controlling the oil temperature to avoid burning the chiles, which preserves the depth of flavor and silky texture.”

Tastiness and bright colors permeate the entire Covacha menu, with a complexity of flavors I had not experienced at other Mexican restaurants in the city. Asked if Covacha had surprised customers, Cobo answered: “Absolutely. At first, it was a challenge—New Yorkers are more familiar with southern Mexican food—but over time, our guests have become more curious and open. Jalisco’s cuisine is rooted in milpa culture—corn, beans, squash, and chiles are central—alongside slow-cooked stews and adobos. It’s a cuisine of deep, layered flavors, and many times enjoyed eating with a spoon. Mostly time-honored techniques passed down by abuelas. Unlike the grilled meats and flour tortillas more common in northern Mexican cuisine, Jalisco focuses on bold sauces, handmade corn-based dishes, and rich broths.”

As gorgeous as Covacha’s food is its décor, an exquisitely recreated scene from an old Mexican pueblo that hits just right; it’s neither kitschy nor over-the-top.  “The word Covacha in Mexican slang refers to the most humble space in the house, a rustic, cozy corner—often where old objects and memories are stored, and usually surprises are found,” Cobo said. “Our decor is inspired by the patios of the pueblo houses, filled with handcrafted details that evoke the textures, colors, and nostalgia of rural Jalisco. Each element is designed to spark a memory and create a sense of home.”

Covacha is open every day from 11:30 a.m. till 9:30 p.m. (10:30 p.m. on weekends), with takeout and delivery available at these times. Vegetarian options and substitutions are plentiful–a cauliflower version of the flautas is available on the menu–and vegan choices are clearly labeled (Covacha will also try to make vegan substitutions when possible.) The vibe is obviously that of a joyous fiesta, so it can get loud, but outside tables are also available for a more intimate experience.

The Dish: Flautas ($22)

The Restaurant: Covacha, 368 Columbus Avenue (between W 77th and 78th streets)

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