By Abigael T. Sidi
Any true connoisseur of pizza enjoys a return to roots once in a while. Song’ E Napule Pizzeria and Trattoria, which opened a year ago on Amsterdam Avenue between 82nd and 83rd streets, offers Upper West Siders just that — the “real thing,” the common ancestor of all pizza, which originated in Naples, Italy, two centuries ago. Add a single ingredient to a Margherita base – legendary fatty anchovies from the Amalfi Coast – and you have Song’ E Napule’s Pizza Napoletana.
The sauce is made exclusively of San Marzano tomatoes from the reputed Eccelenze Nolane and Rega brands. The fior di latte is directly imported from Campagna, and so are the anchovies, from the famous Azienda Armatore located in Cetara, a lovely fisherman village about 1.5 hour drive from Naples (which I was fortunate to visit last summer). Lastly, both the oregano and olive oil are from Sicily. In short, as our host Salvatore explained in a formal tone and Italian accent, “Everything is directly imported from Italy, except the water.”
Unlike New York-style pizza, which is cooked for 2-3 min in a 150 C oven, giving it its typical crispy crust, Neapolitan pizza is cooked for as little as one minute at the same temperature, just enough to char the outside but giving the center and toppings a more gooey, almost soggy texture. As such, the pie is better devoured with fork and knife rather than on the go.
Unsurprisingly, some New Yorkers struggle with this, but Song’ E Napule’s husband-and-wife owners, Ciro Iovine and Austria Maldonado, will not give an inch. The recipe is the recipe, take it or leave it. I choose to take it. The pie is so reminiscent of the pizzas we enjoyed in Naples, from the pungent tomatoes to the nutty melted cheese, and, the true stars of the show, the large, fatty, iconic blue-grey Armatore anchovies. Pure flavor bombs.
Notably, the Neapolitan dough does not contain any added oil or sugar, which helps avoiding the infamous pizza coma typical of New York pies.
True to its name, Song’ E Napule (which translates to “I am from Naples”) is a serenade to its home city. Similar to its original location on Houston Street, posters of the legendary Argentinian soccer player Diego Maradona (who played for SSC Napoli in the 80s), grace every wall. Unlike most pizza joints in Naples, the UWS Song’ E Napoli offers a pleasant open space with tables on the sides. Music is played at acceptable levels; reservations are typically hard to get Friday and Sunday; takeout and delivery; open 12-10 p.m. daily.
The Dish: Pizza Napoletana ($24)
The Restaurant: Song’ E Napule, 464 Amsterdam Avenue (between 82nd and 83rd streets)
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We had the pizza there a few months ago. It’s very good and fits squarely with the many many other places on the UWS that serve the same kind of pizza not by the slice. I’d say better than Motorino and Ortomare but not as good as Don Antonio. Definitely does not require a knife and fork. The name of the restaurant is holding it back. I don’t care how authentic the name is, after we ate there and liked it we didn’t remember it and would not have been able to recommend it to anyone else as a result.
150° c is only 302° f. New York Pizza ovens range between 500° f and 600° f while Neapolitan wood Pizza ovens are usually between 700° f and 900° f
I love their pizza!
Feed me these anchovies right now!! I’ll go to my grave believing they are the one essential topping on any pizza. Didn’t know about this joint, will definitely give them a try. Can smell the anchovies from here
Yes! Anchovies are way under-appreciated and aren’t an option in too many pizza places. Though with this tinned fish craze that might change. This place sounds great. Thanks for the post.
6.00 for a Coke. Ripoff. I’ll pass on this place.
Thanks for the recommendation! You had me at “the common ancestor of all pizza” 🙂
Just had the pizza after reading this. So different from our usual pizza. Sosososososo yummy and I loved it ! Thanks. ❤️
You’re right, I had it a while back and it’s really close to the real thing. Motorino does a pretty good job as well. The true authentic one though is the Marinara, just tomato sauce, no cheese. Even the Margherita is almost considered sacrilegious when you’re in the old town, so adding anchovies on top would probably get you arrested. But is it delicious? Oh yes
The pizza is fantastic. We are truly lucky to have this place in the neighborhood. Ignore any negative comments from people who don’t understand Neapolitan style pizza.
I have been making neapolitan pizza for many years. I’ve have been taught in Naples (AVPN). I’ve been to many neapolitan pizza places in NYC (original location of Una Pizza Napoletana, wood burning and grandfathered in coal ovens) and elsewhere (e.g., Da Michele in Naples). Song e Napule is definitely one of the top places in NYC right now. It’s all about the quality and especially the dough. They do an excellent job with the dough and most importantly they care about the result. I would give it a 9 out of 10 and I can’t think of any NYC place right now that is better. The price ($) is about 10-20% too high.