By Abigael T. Sidi
Whenever I walk by this place, there is a crowd. There’s a line of people waiting for a table, there’s a group waiting for pickup, and then there are people like me, who stop and watch the crowd, wondering what’s going on (which mechanically further grows the crowd). The place in question? Sala Thai, on Amsterdam Avenue between West 74th and West 75th streets. (You can’t miss it; it’s where the crowd is.)
Sure, the location is hard to beat – on the way in and out of the Beacon Theatre – but the Upper West Side isn’t exactly short on Thai options. So, why all the fuss about this place, specifically?
Enter Sala and you are immediately stunned by its beauty, transported to another world. Sala refers to the small open pavilions found near Thai temples (wats), where people can gather, find shade, or more generally shelter from inclement tropical weather. Sala does indeed feel like a mini Thai temple: Hand carved wood panels, golden light fixtures, and Thai murals grace the restaurant from front to back, creating an enchanting vibe.
The menu is of the visual type, with pictures helping you to choose from a myriad of options. Intimidated, confused, and to be perfectly honest, defeated by the profuse menu, I settle on pad thai. But rather than going for the traditional dish (available in the Classics section), I opt for a version with a twist, referred to as Pad Thai Bolan, in which the noodles are wrapped inside an egg net that reminds me of a French crépinette. (Pad Thai Bolan is available in the “entrees” section, as opposed to the “classics” section of the menu.)
After a short wait, the dish arrives. And it is gorgeous, the shiny noodles trapped inside the egg net, the whole thing just begging to be slashed open. On top rests an appetizing, full-size grilled prawn, with cilantro, crushed peanuts, and bean sprouts on the side. I then realize that what I’m looking at with the Pad Thai Bolan is, in effect, a deconstructed pad thai. Pick and choose which ingredients to incorporate, and in which amounts, to have an interesting control over the flavors and textures. Cool concept!
For my part, I slash through the net, release the steamy noodles and just mix everything together. A pleasant surprise: many more prawns were buried with the noodles, for a generous total of six (this might explain the hefty price of the Bolan version, $26, as compared to the traditional pad thai, which starts at $18 for the tofu and veggie versions, with chicken/pork at $19, beef at $20, and duck at $23.)
The dish itself is delicious: All the familiar and addictive tangy flavors are there, with the tamarind, especially, shining through. Sala’s pad thai delves more into the sweet than the salty, with the fish sauce barely detectable. The large prawns are cooked just right (tender as opposed to rubbery, with a subtle char and good juices) and make the dish really meaty. Perhaps the most interesting part of Pad Thai Bolan is that the sprouts, peanuts, and cilantro, which I just incorporated, are still outright crunchy and earthy, adding to the flavors, textures, and complexity of the dish.
Now to the overall Sala experience. The place is JAM PACKED, and to say it is noisy and bustling would be an understatement. If you’re looking for a large range of tasty Thai options served quickly, and you don’t mind the decibels, this place is for you. But if you’re looking for an intimate conversation, a first-date kind of experience, look elsewhere.
The crowd, which trends on the young side, is in fact quite eclectic, and the many Thai customers who were sitting around us recommended other dishes to try in the future, claiming some were very difficult to find in the city and exceptionally well done at Sala. I remember them specifically raving about the taro samosa (Kang Kao Peuak), which are taro puffs stuffed with minced shrimp, roasted coconut flakes and kaffir lime leaves.
Sala Thai opens at 11:30 a.m. and closes at 10:30 p.m. every day (11 p.m. on Saturdays), with a break between 3:15 and 4:30 p.m. Veggie and gluten-free options are clearly marked, and vegan dishes/substitutions available. Take out and delivery available at these times. Reservations highly recommended, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.
The Dish: Pad Thai Bolan ($26)
The Restaurant: Sala Thai, 307 Amsterdam Ave. (between West 74th and 75th streets)
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I recommend going for lunch. No lines to get in and a lunch special offered Monday-Friday
Lunch is busy some days especially Fridays. Not like the reservation required evenings, but there is a wait sometimes and reservations are a good idea for 4 or more.
Right on. Avoid during evenings at all costs or sit a the bar. On top of loud customers, the bass levels on their music is out of whack. Lunch is the correct option
Great food, but you’re often competing with tourists looking for an inexpensive place to eat before their show at the Beacon. So either have a reservation or have a plan B.
For when the plain old pad thai is just too boring.
I had a dinner reservation at Sala Thai about a month ago. When we arrived, the place was packed and were told we’d have to wait for a table. We left and haven’t been back.
Salsa Thai is a neighborhood gem! Always a great meal every time I go
Good curry, various.
Excellent crab mango salad, no longer on the menu.
Greasy fried calamari. Avoid.
Can get too loud with the low ceiling.
Hi Jay, thanks for your comment. The soft shell crab mango salad was available the other day as a summer special. I actually tried it as well and it was SOOO good. Fresh, tasty, had a really tough time splitting with the PT. I’m assuming if you go back soon it’ll be there for you on the summer specials menu!
For noise and cost reasons I usually stick with the lunch menu.
Good to know that the mango crab salad is sometimes available, BUT the fried calamari is really sub par.
I had this dish! Looks like a gimmick but this is a well executed pad thai and, indeed, very generous in prawns. Sala is solid and varied Thai, enough to have you go back to try new things. I’ve only been to lunch so won’t comment on dinner, but as another commenter said, lunch can get loud as well. Low ceilings, perhaps the wood all over the walls doesn’t help either. I just listen to classic on my earphones, problem solved!
Looking at the top picture makes me think that plain food is also good.
The food is great (love the Pad See Ew) and the staff are always very friendly and professional.
These columns are great! Thank you and please keep them coming.