By Abigael T. Sidi
If you’re on a tight budget or a student like me in this neighborhood, you’re constantly looking for “good cheap eats” to survive the day.
What if you could pick up an affordable, comforting, takeout container of Italian pasta covered with a delicious, slow-simmering homemade sauce?
But, wait a minute, Italian food is typically enjoyed in restaurants. Let’s face it: Spaghetti Bolognese while walking? Probably not a good idea.
Michael Salzano and Ariel Strizower had a better one – Gnocchi!
Predominantly made of mashed potatoes whisked with flour and egg, these bite-size dumplings (which date back to the Romans) are technically not pasta but absolutely feel and taste like it, especially when combined with sauce. They’re easy to make, quick to cook, and lend themselves perfectly to easy pickings with fingers or fork.
Salzano and Strizower opened their first shop on 9th street in the East Village (hence the restaurant’s name) in April. Affordable ($10-20) and served in Chinese takeout containers, the Gnocchi were an immediate sensation on TikTok and Instagram. They soon turned FOMO-level viral, leading to new openings on the Lower East Side and, most recently, our own Upper West Side outpost at 228 Columbus Avenue, between West 70th and 71st streets.
You might miss the Upper West Side store if you didn’t know it was there. It is a hole-in-the-wall space that has no indoor seating, but a pretty consistent line on the weekends.
The Gnocchi are chewy (almost meaty), creamy, filling, and absolutely delicious. While it is hard to resist the decadent Caccio e Pepe (the famed Roman egg and pecorino-based sauce), which comes with grated black truffle ($14), their most popular offering by far is their Gnocchi alla Vodka ($10). The sauce, a staple of Italian-American cuisine made with garlic, onions, and tomatoes deglazed with vodka and mixed with heavy cream, is homemade and every bit as authentic as that found in serious Italian restaurants around town.
A single portion can easily cover two meals. Gnocchi on 9th fans have already made it tradition to add a ball of fresh, gooey Burrata cheese on top ($3 extra), which is seasoned with fresh black pepper, red chili flakes (optional), parmesan, and a dash of olive oil.
Gluten-free and vegan options available. Seasonal items also available, such as their Roasted Pumpkin Gnocchi. Takeout only.
The Dish: Gnocchi alla Vodka (con Burrata) $13.
The Restaurant: Gnocchi on 9th, 228 Columbus Avenue (between West 70th and 71st)
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What a great find.
Thank you!
Doesn’t taste like real gnocchi. I was very disappointed
if you’re on a budget, make your own. this is overpriced and unimpressive.
Caccio e Pepe does not contain egg. I think the article’s author may be confusing it with Carbonara, which contains egg and also pork.
Hi Steve: yes you are right, no eggs in the caccio e pepe, just the pecorino and pasta water, plus the cracked pepper. Apologies! Will do better next time
No biggie, Abby. It’s just my brother owns an Italian restaurant where he’s also the chef and I’m afraid I may have picked up a bit of his pain-in-the-assedness regarding Italian food, LOL!
My kids LOVE this place, they learned about it on TikTok like you said. They often share the Pomodoro gnocchi (which are vegan) and I for one am happy they’re getting a healthy meal over the junk/processed foods they usually pick up in the neighborhood.
Unfortunately, these are also processed. The gnocchi are not handmade but from a box and similarly with the sauces.
Sure, it’s basic, but it gets the job done if you’re just looking to get some quick carbs. I’m sure their margins are good, though.
The portions are BIG. Mine fed 2 people a nice warm lunch as we walked down Columbus.