By Robert Beck
I was walking up 72nd on my way to the studio when the Charles Pan-Fried Chicken restaurant caught my eye. Those small-scale businesses squished into narrow spaces fascinate me. How do they make that work? Charles was closed, and I put my hands beside my face and looked in the glass front door. I saw a narrow take-out counter with a kitchen in the back, and Stephanie coming towards me with a smile on her face. She unlocked and opened the door.
“Welcome to Charles Pan-Fried Chicken! How can I serve you?”
I’d never been in a Charles and hadn’t expected to make a painting pitch at that moment, but Stephanie had that big smile, and there would be no better time. I told her about my Rag articles and how I would like to paint in the store, and she said it sounded like a great idea. She gave me Chef Quie’s card (He’s the COO of the four-location business) and said I could call him any time. I hadn’t been at my studio for more than ten minutes when he called me. Chef Quie liked the idea too.
I came back a couple of days later, two hours before opening. First, I went to the back and considered the view from the kitchen end, but I would have to set up in a narrow lane with stainless workstations and stocked shelves on each side. Stephanie asked if I wanted her to move anything. I was thinking: move it to where? And the staff was right in the middle of prep for opening. Yet I could hear in her voice that she would make it happen. Chef Quie had said, today was my day, and I could be anywhere I wanted. They would work around me. Welcome to Charles Pan-Fried Chicken! How can I serve you?
I prefer to avoid traffic patterns, so I located my easel at the front window, which was out of the customers’ direct path but still in a busy space. Sometimes, I had to move when people came inside or left with their bags of food. When the door stuck, I would stop painting and give it a shove for them. Most customers ordered their meals to go, but a couple of well-dressed women ate their chicken on stools right beside my easel. We chatted and laughed. The place smelled great. I could hear Stephanie welcoming people over the noise of everyone enjoying themselves. There were tables out front, and some passers-by watched me work through the window.
It was Tuesday, Catfish Day at Charles. Experience has taught me that the catfish in a soul-food restaurant is sublime, but I knew my wife was making fish for dinner, so I got the chicken for lunch. With black-eyed peas and cornbread. Yum. There’s no secret to why everyone has smiles on their faces in that place. Welcome to Charles Pan-Fried Chicken.
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Mother-in-Law’s Note: Before Robert Beck wrote West Side Canvas, his essays and paintings were featured in Weekend Column. Read Robert Beck’s earlier columns here and here.
See more of Robert Beck’s work and his UWS studio by visiting www.robertbeck.net And let Robert know if you have a connection to an archetypal UWS place or event that would make a good West Side Canvas subject. Thank you!
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The staff is very sweet
Such a lovely team and the BEST fried chicken. Don’t sleep on the cornbread, either. It’s sweet and so so moist.
Wonderful as always. I hope it will be soon when a handsome book collecting the art work and verbal sketches will be published. I no longer live on the UWS–have been in So Cal for the past 5 years–so these great pictures bring back many fond memories. Thanks, Robert. .
From your keyboard to an agent’s ears.
Maybe some agents are Rag readers! I’ll start planting seeds. I can picture it. I think I’d like Gray’s Papaya on the cover. In the meantime, keep on painting!
Charles Pan-Fried Chicken is featured in the second season of the excellent Netflix series “High on the Hog: How African-American Cuisine Transformed America.”
https://www.netflix.com/title/81034518
This is a great article, except for one thing — you left out the specific address of the restaurant!! Now I want chicken and I don’t know where it is!
Follow the wonderful aroma
On the south side of the street between Broadway and Columbus Avenue.
146 W 72nd St. A quick Google search helps.
146 W 72nd St · (646) 569-9936
Is that where the historical Fine & Shapiro restaurant used to be?
No, Pastrami Queen is where Fine and Shapiro used to be.
Whoa! What? No Mac & Cheese? You gotta have the Mac & Cheese at Charles. I could eat the whole pan. And Bob, once again your marvelous gem of a painting captures the “narrow” fried spirit of the place.
So Mr All—About-Town….HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Mmmm I can smell the chicken cookin from here. Will def check this out. Love fried chicken and catfish too. Oh and nice work too
Such good food! Such nice people! Such a marvelous impressionistic view of the premises! Thanks for another great piece, Robert.
thank you for the kind words
Charles fried chicken is the best and freshest food around. The sides are all very very good also. Been following him for at least 15 years now
best food and the NICEST people!
You sold me!