By Ava Stryker-Robbins
Chicken liver is not for everyone. Carmine Mitroni acknowledged that in a phone interview with West Side Rag last week. For more than two decades, Mitroni has owned Celeste, the popular Italian restaurant on Amsterdam Avenue between 84th and 85th Streets.
Chicken liver is for me, however, and Fegatini Di Pollo Con Pane Abbrustolito (a mouthful) is delicious. The balsamic glaze that coats the livers is unique. Mitroni described the dish as “comfort food [with] a sustaining taste to it.” The bread-and-sage garnish enhance the experience, adding additional flavors that blend perfectly with the liver.
While Celeste has been serving Fegatini Di Pollo Con Pane Abbrustolito for about 21 years, it originated in another restaurant Mitroni owned. He grew up in Italy, moving to New York City in 1986, opening restaurants in both locations. His family was also in the restaurant business, but Mitroni tried to “stay away from it for as long as possible,” he said. Eventually, it drew him in.
Mitroni views Celeste as a place where people can “escape from the realities of living in the city.”
In addition to Fegatini Di Pollo Con Pane Abbrustolito, Celeste serves pizza, pasta, a range of entrees, brunch, and much more (including a delicious blood orange sorbet with balsamic vinegar and strawberries!). As Celeste’s website says, “Enjoy your calories.”
The Fegatini Di Pollo Con Pane Abbrustolito costs $17.
Note: Celeste is a cash-only restaurant for in-house dining. They accept credit cards for online ordering, pickup and delivery, and corporate and private dining events. There is an ATM machine on site.
The Dish: Fegatini Di Pollo Con Pane Abbrustolito
The Restaurant: Celeste (502 Amsterdam Avenue between 84th and 85th Streets)
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Can they chop it, with a dollop of schmaltz, and little bit of hard boiled egg?
While the food is ok, the owner is downright rude. He acts as if he is doing people a favor by taking their money. It is the “hospitality” industry after all, but that seems to be lost on the ownership and service of this place.
Celeste’s linguine with clams is my favorite go-to dish, and I appreciate their homestyle food, reasonable prices, and refreshingly un-fussy, neighborhoody atmosphere.
I’ve been frequenting Celeste since it opened and am a big fan of both the food and Carmine. (He’s quite the character, in a good way. ) I don’t go with Fegatini Di Pollo Con Pane Abbrustolito, but I have had most of the appetizers and most of the pastas, as well as other entrees, and am almost always extremely pleased. (The wine list is good too.) The only thing I quibble with is Mitroni’s view that Celeste is a place where people can “escape from the realities of living in the city.” Alas the tables at Celeste are very close together–there’s barely a seat in the restaurant where a waiter or busboy won’t brush against you during your meal. To me, that means Celeste is very much a place where you experience the realities of living in the city! Having said that, the food is fresh and delicious and the atmosphere generated by Carmine’s personality is convivial, and that makes the overall experience very positive.
This dish is amazing!!! I order it almost every time I go. The flavors meld perfectly!
I have also been going since it opened, love it and Carmine (the first time we went he told us about the cheeses he brought in his suitcase.) I’m a vegetarian, and my go-to dishes are their well made pizzas! Yum
Although I’m a vegetarian, still relish these dish descriptions and backstories. Keep ’em coming, Ava.
Carmine prides himself on his array of cheeses, which he shared with me he brings clandestine in a suitcase on his frequent trips to Italy. You can draw your own conclusions as to why this is a “cash only“ restaurant.