By Ava Stryker-Robbins
Gnocchi have existed since the dawn of the Roman empire. While these knuckle-shaped Italian dumplings used to be made with semolina flour, they are now often potato-based and have many variations that are common in Italian cuisine.
Bosino’s Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina is a tasty version smothered in a homemade tomato sauce with fresh mozzarella. The dumplings are fluffy and light, and the tomatoes in the sauce taste like they were picked that morning.
The dense texture of gnocchi can sometimes leave your stomach feeling heavy, but not at Bosino where the gnocchi are airy and easy to digest. Bosino owner and founder Davide Pupillo said in an interview with WSR that he puts great effort into making sure they are just so, as did his mother, who first made this dish for him when he was a child in Italy. At Bosino, the gnocchi are cooked in a pizza oven. All ingredients are locally purchased several times a week.
Bosino opened in 2019, only months before the pandemic hit, with the intention of bringing authentic Italian cooking to the Upper West Side. “You don’t need to go to Italy to eat real Italian food,” Pupillo says. He shares that his father, Giuseppe, is his greatest inspiration and that Giuseppe’s hard work in their family restaurant in Italy motivated him to open Bosino. Pupillo grew up working in the family restaurant and has cousins with their own restaurants throughout Italy. He speaks fondly of Upper West Side residents, sharing that after only two or three visits, he considers customers his friends.
Bosino has both indoor and outdoor spaces that are comfortable and cozy. In the outdoor space, there are radiating heat lamps that keep diners warm despite the winter chill. The environment is further enhanced with plants and soothing jazz. Service is prompt and friendly, and delicious bread is served before the meal arrives. Bosino serves many other dishes, including a wide variety of brick oven pizzas made with three types of flour, imported from Italy. As Bosino is tucked away on a side street, there is little noise and the usual rush of New York City streets feels distant.
Towards the end of the interview, Pupillo emphasized that “every day we are improving.” He views Bosino as a continuing effort and enjoys the prospect of one day opening a bigger restaurant.
The Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina costs $18.
The Dish: Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina
The Restaurant: Bosino (201 West 103rd Street between Amsterdam and Broadway)