This is the second article in a West Side Rag series about the most essential eateries on the Upper West Side. Spurred by the sudden closure of H&H Bagels last year, we asked ourselves the question: what other restaurants, markets, and bakeries are absolutely essential to the neighborhood? This is not a list of the “best” restaurants; it’s an homage to the places that define the neighborhood, the spots where we hope and expect our grandchildren will be noshing decades from now.
By Tracy Kaler
In 1994, Connie McDonald and Pam Weekes searched Manhattan for a space where they could launch their retail baking business. A storefront on Avenue B in the East Village seemed like the perfect location, but it failed to materialize. Shortly after the deal fell through, a friend noticed the empty first level in a building on West 74th Street off of Amsterdam Avenue.
The East Village’s loss was the Upper West Side’s gain. In 1995, Levain Bakery was born.
Seventeen years later, Levain is one of the most talked-about bakeries in New York City. The lines to get into the 500-square-foot basement space stretch out the door. Anyone who has tried the baked goods knows they’re worth the wait.
All items in the shop are made fresh daily by flour-dusted bakers darting this way and that behind the counter. The smell of chocolate, cinnamon, and warm rising dough puts customers in a kind of narcotic dream state.
But while the smell is light and airy, the shop’s famous cookies are quite substantial.
Originally, Levain wasn’t about cookies. It started as an artisanal bread shop. But McDonald and Weekes had always clung to a desire to create the ultimate chocolate chip cookie recipe.
While training for the Ironman triathlon, they found their inspiration. Both McDonald and Weekes needed to load up on calories, but the average cookie simply wasn’t big enough. So they invented the six-ounce Levain classic chocolate chip walnut cookie. The New York Times has labeled them “Possibly the largest, most divine chocolate chip cookies in Manhattan.” They’re the most popular item in the store, with the chocolate chocolate chip cookies not far behind.
The cookies have received national press, and the bakeshop is in second place as a top restaurant destination on Trip Advisor. You can find both locals and tourists waiting in line together outside the location every day.
Levain also tries to give back to the community. At the end of the day leftovers are donated to feed the hungry.
“We try to put out the best product and offer the best service to our customers every time,” said McDonald.
But what about the name “Levain”? In French, it means “leavening” or as we call it in the US, “sour-dough starter.” The owners thought it was a perfect name considering the bread ingredients they use most often are flour, water and yeast.
In addition to the Upper West Side, the partners own a seasonal store in the Hamptons, as well as a Harlem location, which opened last spring. McDonald said managing the three shops is one of their biggest challenges.
Still, she and Weekes are typically on the same page when making major decisions. “We’ve been best friends for years,” McDonald said. The close partnership has contributed to their success.
That wasn’t the case in 1995. “Starting out was tough. We had little money, and worked around the clock.” Even now long hours are the norm. But McDonald (who left a career in finance) and Weekes (fashion), love what they do and the proof is in the cookie.
What’s the secret to keeping a neighborhood bakery growing and thriving over the years? “Don’t give up. Stick with it”, McDonald emphasized. “The first few years are the hardest, but it gets easier. It’s all worth it.”
When fans return time after time for a chunk or a loaf of the goodness that we all know as Levain, the reward doesn’t get any sweeter than that.
Levain Bakery
167 West 74th Street, New York NY 10023
212-874-6080
www.levainbakery.com
Photos by Tracy Kaler, Avi, and Levain Bakery.
To read the first article in our Essential Eats series, which is about Barney Greengrass, click here.
Tracy Kaler is an Upper West Sider, who was a cool kid back in the 70’s, when everything was cool and a little scary. Now she’s a writer/blogger, dancer, interior designer, amateur cook/foodie, fashionista wannabe, and overall creative soul. You can read more of her writing at Tracy’s New York Life.
Levain Bakery is definitely one of the best spots on the Upper West Side. We are huge fans of their oatmeal raisin cookies, and the banana chocolate chip bread.
I live right across the street and bring these cookies with me whenever I am invited anywhere. They are always a huge hit!
There is no doubt that the cookies are without equal. That said, what’s with the no gloves for the people handling he cookie dough – I’m horrified! Aren’t gloves required? Surprised that the health authorities haven’t gotten wind of this!
No Sam, they only have to wear gloves when handling ready to eat foods(the cookies after they’re baked).
Yummmmm….. I can hardly wait. Definitely on my to-do list.
Very proud of these 2 fine women. I knew them both before Levain opened its doors and have enjoyed witnessing their success. I love all their baked goods and whatever calories Pam and Connie take in, they burn off in the pool during challenging morning swim workouts at Columbia Univ.