By Abigael T. Sidi
Sometimes I feel as if, had I one more year of writing this column, it would have turned into “Here’s the Georgian Dish.” Ever since my editors Ann Cooper and Laura Muha tipped me to Chama Mama last year, I’ve developed an unhealthy obsession with the breadth and depth of Georgian cuisine, to the point where I feel it is the true rival to French gastronomy.
The fragrance, flair and precision of Georgian culinary fare have been a revelation for me, and this week’s Saperavi – which opened only a few months ago, just a block and a half north of Chama Mama – is no exception. In fact, Saperavi might be the most authenticity-driven spot I’ve tried on the UWS (Chama Mama and Sipsteria are marvelous as well, perhaps in more modern ways). And with restaurants of this quality, I’ve developed a habit of focusing on their most “simple” (and often most affordable) dishes, trusting that they, also, will show the magic contained in the meat and fish sections of the menu.
And so, on my last visit, I forwent the superb spicy ribs ($30) I had tried in the past and set my sights on the seemingly humble lobio ($22), the national bean stew, a variation of which is served in every house and every restaurant of every village and town in Georgia, and is a mainstay of the famous Georgian feasts known as supra.
Like every dish I’ve tasted at Saperavi, the lobio, when presented to you, looks like a feast of its own, scintillating with colors and joy, complete with a side of mchadi – the delicious, light and warm Georgian cornbread, which to me feels like a fusion of pita and polenta. Along with the stew is a generous portion of the house’s vegetable pickles, which include snappy cukes (cornichons, but on the softer side); crunchy large leaves of red cabbage; the slightly tangy and floral jonjoli (Georgian bladdernut, unopened flower buds of the Staphylea colchica shrub, commonly served at supras); and, to me, the star pickle of the show, a whole head of immaculately white (seemingly blanched) garlic, whose softer undertones will amaze every garlic lover.
These briny (but not acidic or bitter) veggies provide a beautiful contrast to the hearty, buttery but delicate bean stew, prepared with the traditional tomatoes and onions but exuding flavors of delightful complexity and depth. Saperavi server Kristina divulged part of the secret, naming Trigonella caerulea – blue fenugreek, a milder and less bitter variation of its Indian counterpart – as the main spice doing the work. It infuses the lobio with warm, nutty, almost sweet undertones, elevating the stew to a unique and genuine culinary discovery. I also loved the crunchy parsley stems here and there in the stew, for some freshness and earthiness. Needless to say, I dipped my mchadi in the clay pot until nothing was left, for what proved to be a ultra-satisfying, fun meal.
But Saperavi, ranked on many social media as the best Georgian restaurant in Manhattan, has so much more to offer, it almost feels criminal to just discuss one dish (a long, agonizing issue with this column). The above-mentioned spicy ribs, cooked on a fire grill, are unapologetically porky and juicy, and prepped Memphis style (i.e., firm and bitey, not “off-the-bone”). Not a dish for the faint of heart: fat, grease, juices, the whole thing, served with a red pepper bell sauce that feels so clean and lean it reminds me of a well-executed gazpacho.
The khupati (spicy sausages) and kharcho (beef stew thickened with walnut paste and megrelian spices) are also highly recommended, and so are the more accessible khachapuris (especially the pkhlovana, where spinach is combined with the cheese) and khinkalis (national meat dumplings). And that’s not even a quarter of the menu, which also includes a splendid dessert section and, apparently, one of the best Georgian mille-feuilles (Napoleon) in town…
In terms of restaurant vibe, Saperavi is utmost gregarious, with wooden ceiling, floor and walls – a brief, rustic and cozy escape from the city where you can relax around an astonishingly delicious and generous meal; cuisine with a soul. It is open every day from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., with pickup and delivery available at these times and with vegetarian and vegan options clearly marked.
The Dish: Lobio ($22)
The Restaurant: Saperavi, 410 Amsterdam Avenue (between West 79th and 80th streets)
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Abigael, I think you and I have a telepathic connection. On the way uptown yesterday, my car passed Seperavi on Amsterdam. Familiar with the block but not this place. I made a mental note to look it up. I’ve become very interested in Georgian cuisine in the past year.
Looking at the menu I thought, how the hell can I decide what to order if eating alone. So many choices, so much that looks appealing. My mother came to America from Tiraspol in Moldova when she was 12. I suppose I have a genetic predisposition to food from Ukraine, Georgia, Moldova and environs.
And lo and behold, here you are with exactly what I need. I live a few blocks from there and will put it on my rotation if it is as good as I hope.
I will miss you very much and hope you send an occasional column to the WSR what you have time. You are nonpareil as a food writer. Joel
Hi Joel, thank you so much! And what a coincidence!
I want to add that I have adopted the cioppino at the Grand Feast as a monthly meal. It is superb. Another discovery the preceded your review!..We must be sharing some culinary waves.
Last year a young Georgian woman was my husband’s in-home caregiver. The Georgian dishes she cooked for him were absolutely delicious! I begged her to make enough for me too. I’m now a huge fan of Georgian food.
Thanks for the insightful pieces on the Georgian restaurant scene. I’m a convert!
They just put smaller khinkali on the menu. Much more manageable. And you might not be old enough to drink the namesake wine, but it’s worth mentioning, as this is what completes the dining experience there.
Unfortunately, this restaurant (like oh, so, too many) is very loud — a challenge to hear what your companion is saying. The noise overrides the enjoyment of the very good food. We won’t go back, again unfortunately.
I stopped in here for lunch yesterday I had the mushroom dumplings and the bean Stew and it was everything you described it to be two guys at a nearby table ordered a variety of dishes that look so good that I can’t wait to go back with somebody else and try more items on the menu. This place is a real winner. Sitting outside and watching the passing parade on Amsterdam while I eat was also a treat. I was too full for dessert and just manage a cappuccino and ordered a Napoleon to take home it was a nice late night snack.