
By Abigael T. Sidi
Ever wonder what a Michelin-star pastry chef would accomplish with Chinese dumplings while keeping prices low? If you’re like me and the answer is a resolute “yes please,” you can now find out at chef Sam Yan’s recently opened Dim Sum Sam on Broadway, between West 92nd and 93rd streets.
As reported by Forbes, Sam Yan, a Chinese native who emigrated to NYC in 1996, rose through the ranks in the city’s restaurant industry to ultimately take over as chef pâtissier at Jean Georges. All the while, he saved money to open his own business, which he started in 2016. Dim Sum Sam is the express version of Yan’s Dim Sum Palace mini-chain, with 10 locations spread throughout Manhattan.
Sitting not far from the southern tip of the neighborhood’s “Chinese Corridor” (which Eater defines as the Broadway stretch between West 98th and 113th streets), the Upper West Side’s Dim Sum Sam opened last September and apparently went through some early struggles before formally announcing the spot’s opening on Instagram only a week ago.
Including the soup dumplings (which I didn’t try, but I hear are excellent) and shu mai, I counted no less than 20 dumpling offerings. Of these, I sampled four types, vying to include at least one meat, one seafood, one veggie, and the sublime-looking, pitch-black, and upscale-sounding black truffle shrimp.
After placing my order on a touch screen near the entrance, agonizing as I made my selection, I waited a good 10 to 15 minutes for the dumplings to arrive (I also couldn’t resist and ordered a Hong-Kong style duck noodle soup – it was good but nothing special.) The wait made sense as all dim sums are said to be freshly made on site in the large kitchen. While I could not verify this during my visit, Sam Yan told Forbes that, regardless of location, “all the dim sums are handmade fresh by our food workers and served the day of operation.”
I couldn’t resist and immediately went for the black truffle shrimp. The glossy black wrapping, as gorgeous as advertised, was a little thick, and because it was slightly sticky, I failed to keep it intact, ripping apart the two of the four dumplings that were glued to the bottom of the bamboo basket. That was in line with Dumpling Hunter’s so-so experience with the location’s dumplings early after the restaurant’s opening, and got me a little worried. The taste, however, was almost mesmerizing, with the just-cooked snappy shrimp’s fresh and semi-sweet flavor blending beautifully with the earthy and smokey truffle undertones. Complex, nuanced, and delicious.
Next, I reached for the seafood peashoot. Again, stickiness was an issue, but, yet again, the beautiful pale green visuals and enchanting flavors overcame this shortcoming, with pea scents completely front and center, bursting in my mouth. I thought to myself that the steamed dumpling technique really captured the essence of both the plant and pea, honoring the vegetable. The dumpling also felt much juicier than the black truffle, for what arguably was my favorite bite of the day.
Up next was the taro cilantro pork, which I had chosen because I had never tried a dumpling with the sweet root as ingredient. This was the textural surprise of the day: the taro leads the dance in the filling, with a creamy/grainy paste texture (somewhat similar to polenta) and a mild vanilla-like sweet flavor which combine well with the classic pork/cilantro savory combo. Again, some really interesting complexity, with the taro’s sweetness dominating the bite overall. Unusual and yummy.
Lastly, the Buddha delight, which features a pretty little pea pod throning atop the crown of the dumpling. The filling was not described other than to say it was strictly vegetarian. It turns out that this mainly a minced mushroom dumpling, with strong umami flavors that married well with the slightly acidic dumpling sauce. While not the most memorable, the Buddha delight was interesting and fragrant, and that seemed to be the pattern at Dim Sum Sam.
As I alluded to earlier, there is A LOT more to discover at Dim Sum Sam. As chef Yan told Forbes, they specialize in Cantonese-style dumplings, which means a greater variety of fillings, including chicken, duck and beef. Other than the 50+ dim sum, there is an entire set of BBQ and classic Chinese and Chinese American dishes to choose from.
Dim Sum Sam’s minimalist but open interior is reminiscent of that of other good spots along the Chinese Corridor such as Nai Brother and Nan Xiang Express: nothing to see but nothing to complain about either. The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day, with take-out and delivery available at these times. To avoid fees, you can order on their platform but note that it does not include the entire menu. (For instance, I couldn’t spot the peashoot or taro dumplings on the website – for these and access to all offerings, visit or give them a call at 646-398-8234.)
The Dumplings: Black Truffle Shrimp ($12.95), Seafood Peashoot ($7.25), Taro Cilantro & Pork ($6.75), and Buddha Delight ($6.75).
The Restaurant: Dim Sum Sam: 2485 Broadway (between West 92nd and 93rd streets)
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Nice pic! I haven’t tried them yet thinking all these dim sum places are the same but it looks like this chef has some interesting takes. The peashoot certainly looks appetizing. Thanks for the tip.
Dim Sum Bloom at 98th & Broadway (SE corner) is also terrific and is a very congenial place to have dinner with friends. The menu also has other beautifully prepared Chinese dishes and their hot & sour soup is perfect!
Hi Sandy, thanks for your comment, and for the tip on Dim Sum Bloom! Looks like a prettier place and I’ll definitely check it out!
I think it’s 2485 Broadway, not 2585!
Hi Anonymous, apologies and thanks to you and Ann for the correction.
Thank you for the food reviews, Abby! I really enjoy them. I will definitely try this dim sum place.
Fixed! Thank you.
Enjoy your updates while I’m sticking in Sacramento, CA
Gratefully
M
Hi Tova: thanks for the kind words, and enjoy Cal! It’s still freezing around here
BYOB?
Hi Dave: I decline to comment!
Not the biggest fan of dim sum, but for anyone thinking of trying this place, give theYemeni coffee shop next door a visit, it’ll blow you away. It’s called Moka&Co
Do they have a big off menu menu? Because every time I’m there I just want a basic boy choi dish and can never find one.
Hi Abigael,
Wondering if you might recommend a restaurant for a multi-generational family?
Would need a place with accessible bathrooms and not too loud.
Prior restaurants have sadly closed
Hi part, thanks for your question! Funny you ask because I have such a place for you, coming up very soon: Telio, family greek on Broadway @ 103rd.
Coincidentally, Telio used to be where Dim Sum Sam is now (!). It was great, hope it will be again in its new location (assuming it’s the same people).
Telio was a few doors north of 90th.