By Abigael T. Sidi
As I’ve reflected on my time as the Rag’s Dish columnist this past year and a half, I’ve realized that I’ve never been shy of sharing my memories of my two trips to Italy, and fortunately or unfortunately for my readers, this episode will be no exception. Beyond the obvious feel-good memories, these trips have proven foundational in how I think about food – in Italy, I’ve discovered that cooking can be simple; it can just be about letting the ingredients shine.
Arguably the best sandwich I’ve had in my entire life was in a small cafe in Bologna called Salumeria Simoni Laboratorio, which specializes in mortadella and serves it in a sandwich as plain as can be, with a simple crunchy bread called crescenta bolognese and just a single layer of squacquerone, a soft and spreadable milky cheese similar to burrata. Desperate to find an equivalent sandwich on the Upper West Side, I headed to Salumeria Rosi (Amsterdam, between West 73rd and 74th streets), which has one of the best selections of imported Italian salumi nearby.
I thought I’d found what I was looking for when I spotted a sandwich called Morty 2.0 on the panini menu, where the mortadella is combined with burrata, tomato slices, and basil, all tucked between slices of a bread similar to the crescenta bolognese and slathered with pistachio pesto. The mortadella was soft, fatty and almost juicy, delivering great meaty flavor, and the burrata did a great job as a squacquerone substitute, as expected. However, I felt the tomatoes, basil and especially the pistachio cream were just not necessary and almost interfered with the deliciousness of the mortadella. Don’t get me wrong, the Morty 2.0 is a great sandwich and the meat, burrata and crunchy bread felt as authentic as it gets. But next time, I’ll ask for the other ingredients to be set aside.
Listed on the same menu was another panino I couldn’t resist: the porchetta sandwich. Porchetta is one of those mesmerizing cuts I discovered last year, in which a pork loin is rolled and stuffed with fennel, rosemary and garlic, then roasted whole. The herbs magically infuse the meat, which is then sliced thin or thick and served alone or in a sandwich. In Salumeria Rosi’s panino, the porchetta is combined with provolone, pickles and a Calabrese pepper spread, and served on grilled Tuscan bread. The result is a juicy, porky, fragrant and over-the-top delicious sandwich, with a beautiful crunch from the bread. Again, though, I wasn’t sure about the pickle, which turned the Italian sandwich into more of a Cubano. I love Cubanos, but that’s not why I’m here!
Sometimes I feel we try to do too much on this side of the Atlantic. The intentions are good, I’m sure, but shouldn’t the jewels of Italian salumi be respected for what they are, and not interfered with other ingredients, no matter how good they look or taste on paper?
The porchetta sandwich is the only panino available on the dine-in menu (served with a salad, $24 instead of $18.50 for the sandwich alone), while all others, including the Morty 2.0, are sold for takeout or delivery only. Salumeria Rosi’s other panini include the classic Raffaele (prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato, basil; $17.50) and its ham-less variant, Caprese ($16.50); the smokey and elegant Valtellina (focaccia with bresaola, arugula, Parmesan, and balsamic glaze; $18.50); and the decadent Panino della Nonna (house-made beef and pork meatballs, tomato sauce and grated Parmesan on Stirato bread; $19.50).
It’s safe to say that Salumeria Rosi has become a neighborhood icon; it is always packed and bustling, and getting to your table will require you to squeeze between the register and the always-busy cuts counter. Thankfully there are also plenty of tables outside. Aside from the salumi, which include a number of serious prosciuttos, you’ll be able to buy plenty of classic antipasti and cheeses. It is very common to spot Italian natives doing their shopping there, stepping out with full bags of goods. The dine-in menu is also replete with super tasty and sometimes refined appetizers, pasta dishes and entrees, some of which would be great candidates for a second Dish episode on the place.
Salumeria Rosi is open every weekday from noon to 10 p.m., from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Saturdays, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Sundays, with takeout and delivery available at these times.
The Dish: Morty 2.0 ($16.50) and porchetta ($18.50) panini
The Restaurant: Salumeria Rosi: 283 Amsterdam Avenue (between West 73rd and 74th streets)
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We love Rossi! The food is always fresh and served as it is made, so you might get a salad after the main. Generous portions and great service make this our favorite NYC stop.
One can also purchase a fabulous buffalo milk mozzarella at the deli. The downside? Now I don’t enjoy cow’s milk mozzarella. Salumeria also has the best fresh pasta. Enjoy!
“Sometimes I feel we try to do too much on this side of the Atlantic.” AMEN!
Great piece, and I agree with you 100%, just let the product do the work. With that said, that sandwich you had in Bologna was made of probably the best mortadella in the world (it’s a bolognese speciality) so of course it’s easier for them to let the ingredient shine!
Oh my, perfect timing as we just spent 2 weeks over Easter break in Italy: 7 nights of them in Bologna, so I am exceptionally familiar with Simoni as we walked in and out numerous times, our place was seconds away above Mango/The Apple Store on Via Rizzoli. I love love love Bologna, it was my 2nd visit & I am already dreaming about my next trip back. It is not just the exceptional food, slow paced attitude or the historic setting, it is also the phenomenally fair pricing and lack of tax & gratuity that makes the whole experience memorable. We spent countless hours on the high tops of the packed Zerocinquantuno or outdoor pub life at I Panini di Miro et al. Now I am sad & longing again. But not for the 666 Portico walk to the Sanctuary of San Luca !
I am glad you enjoyed Bologna, but there was tax. They do it differently, it is the VAT and already incorporated into the sale price; unlike here where the ax is added at point of sale.
Of course my go to Italian retreat is Siena, but to each his own.
Same, but strictly for the food, Bologna is the true capital in the region. About half way from Milan to Florence, it is a must stop for any charcuterie lover (Parma is also close by)
PS..not once did I see a tomatoes on my sandwich, certainly not with the local meats. And only at Mo Mortedella lab did they over do it with the Pistachio creme and a whole Burrata ATOP a heap of Mortadella !
The correct spelling is “Salumeria Rosi”. One “s”. Rossi is a common last name in Italy, but Rosi is a nickname from Rosa or Rosina (female first names).
Thank you, fixed.
Agree, but what are the odds that SR’s mortadella (packaged, conditioned, transported, stored) is even close in freshness to the one served by the actual maker of the mortadella in Bologna. I man, even if SR imported it from Simoni themselves, it probably wouldn’t taste half as good. Hence the pistachio pesto, used for “hiding” purposes, probably. Still a damned good sandwich, and the bresaola one is off the charts.
Love these columns!
Another gem. I have been eating there since it was opened in 2010 or 2011 by Cesare Casella , with his sprigs of Rosemary. Fortunately it did not suffer change in ownership and has remained my go to place for dates and orders for delivery. There is nothing on the menu that does not taste good. The porchetta sandwich is wonderful. Glasses of very good white and red wine are available as is a great Prosecco. The wait staff are charming and efficient. The risotto with mushrooms is best in class, and a salumi assortment with toasted focaccia is a great starter. Reservations are a must for lunch and dinner. The take out selection of salumi, other meats, cheeses and assorted goodies is the best on DOC one can get. It is a happy place.
Bravo for your attempt to find an Italian equivalent here, ma non e possibile….. mi despiace