By Abigael T. Sidi
As I was planning for this week’s piece, with yet another blizzard incoming, I was leaning toward a Battle of the Phos, inspired by multiple requests from readers of my two-episode Onion Soup Battle series (here and here; we can all unfortunately agree they are still highly relevant.) But then I thought: Enough with soups! How about a little sunshine?
For a simple, bright and poppy reprieve, head to Florentin (Amsterdam, corner of West 83rd) for their white bean msabbaha. (And the good thing is, you can also have their great onion soup, which I covered in the aforementioned Onion Soup Battle Episode II.)
Of all the dishes I’ve covered for this column, Florentin’s white bean msabbaha might be most straightforward, no-fuss of them all, yet is super tasty and vibrant. This is a dish you can actually make at home; white beans (from dry, but canned is okay), tahini, lemon and olive oil are all you need. Toppings are up to you – Florentin adds crushed tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs and parsley – and a little creativity is allowed. Look carefully, and perhaps except for the tahini (which you can get anywhere, Trader Joe’s has a very decent one), you probably have everything you need in your kitchen, and this is your chance to make good use of that can of beans that has been hiding miserably in the back of your pantry.
Msabbaha, meaning swimming in Arabic, is a millenary-old chickpea recipe with origins in the Levant (Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Israel, Palestine). Its name refers to the whole or semi-crushed chickpeas that are added on top of hummus — i.e., “swimming” in a simple tahini sauce. In a nutshell, it’s a chunkier version of hummus. It is one of the most common and affordable street foods in the area and is enjoyed from dawn to dusk – all you need is fresh/grilled pita bread as a dipper. There are too many variations of msabbaha to count, as defined by the level of chunkiness, and types of toppings and seasonings that are used.
Banking on the liberal nature of the dish, Florentin innovates with the base itself, substituting white beans for the chickpeas, for a spread resembling a cross between traditional Arabic msabbaha and the Tuscan crema di fagioli (bean spread, a mainstay topping for crostini and bruschettas in Florence, Sienna and the like.) The use of white beans makes for a lighter, silkier dip, and allows the brightness, freshness and acidity of the lemon to shine (as I said, a brief but very real glimpse of sunshine). The whole beans swimming on top give that pleasant extra texture, and Florentin’s pita bread – fresh, warm and slightly crispy – is fantastic. Lastly, the fresh crushed tomatoes and impeccably cooked boiled egg work well as toppings, but again, pretty much anything would! A simple, bright, and very delicious dish overall, to be enjoyed as an appetizer, midday snack, or even a whole meal if you aren’t starving.
Florentin, which opened less than a year ago, appears to be finding its groove in the neighborhood, with an eclectic European/Mediterranean/Middle Eastern menu served in a charming, bright and welcoming bistro/bar/brasserie setting. In addition to the msabbaha, you’ll find the likes of a freekeh risotto, chicken schnitzel, edamame falafel, imported garganelli with a porcini reduction, and tuna nicoise, all on the same menu. Some people don’t like that style, think it’s messy and inauthentic, but I personally think it’s fun and exciting, provided the dishes are well executed. Given the deliciousness of the onion soup and white bean msabbaha, and the stellar credentials of owner Udi Vaknin (former Buddha Bar manager and current manager of my beloved Bustan across the street), I know I will be visiting again.
Florentin can be a little noisy but it’s good noise, with good-vibes music as fun and eclectic as the menu (it appears Vaknin himself is in charge, DJing on site). The restaurant is open every weekday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. and opens a little earlier for brunch on weekends (10:30 a.m.), with takeout and delivery available at these times. Vegetarian and vegan options abound.
The Dish: White Bean Msabbaha ($15).
The Restaurant: Florentin: 480 Amsterdam Avenue (corner of West 83rd Street)
Read all Here’s the UWS Dish columns here.
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