Here’s the UWS Dish: Baazi’s Chicken Sirka Pyaaz (& G.O.A.T Bihari)

By Abigael T. Sidi

Not since my inaugural “Dish” (Kebab Aur Sharab’s Famous Butter Chicken) have I tasted Indian food this good on the Upper West Side. And it isn’t just me raving about Baazi (Broadway, between West 97th and 98th streets): Nick Jonas’ better half, goddess Priyanka Chopra, who dined there on the night of my visit, as well as Shark Tank’s Rohan Oza and countless other Indian and Indian-American celebs, flock to chef Gaurav Anand’s innovative takes on authentic, complex dishes from across India.

While Baazi owner Ravi Ranjan told me about each of these VIPs’ personal preferences, one dish stood out as a consensus pick. That dish, which I was personally tipped off to by a family friend, is Baazi’s “chicken sirka pyaaz” (i.e., with pickled onions). A close second was the aptly named G.O.A.T Bihari, which I also tasted and couldn’t resist including in this piece.

I’ll start with the chicken sirka pyaaz. While pickled pearl onions are a common condiment in Indian restaurants across the country, only rarely will you find them, or any pickling agent such as vinegar, as an integral part of any Indian curry. This is where chef Anand’s creativity kicks in, and where his choice for the restaurant’s name (baazi means to bet, take a chance) materializes: Vinegar is blended in not just once but twice in this otherwise traditional chicken curry dish, which uses sauteed tomatoes as a main ingredient for the gravy. According to Ranjan, Anand first spikes the sauce with a dash of pickling juice, and finishes the dish by incorporating the actual pickled onions.

I had been previously introduced to the magic of the chicken+vinegar combo by my French parents, who occasionally try to emulate Paul Bocuse’s legendary poulet au vinaigre at home – the vinegar’s sharp acidity balances the buttery sauce in ways you would have not thought possible (the perfect mix of creamy and tangy). Whether Anand is aware of this or not (I suspect he is), his chicken sirka pyaaz achieves the same magic, with the added benefit of the fragrance from warm and heady Indian spices. That pop within the dish’s silkiness and layers of flavor creates a truly unique and enchanting dish I hope every one of my readers will try.

Contrasting with the witty, transgressive chicken sirka pyaaz is Baazi’s utmost traditional, centuries-old and by-the-book goat Bihari (playfully spelled out as G.O.A.T., for greatest of all time). The dish, more commonly known as Champaran mutton (from the Champaran district of Bihar), “traces its roots back to village celebrations and royal hunting feasts, where whole goats were slow cooked in sealed clay pots over firewood,” Ranjan told me. “What makes it so special is its minimalist philosophy: no heavy gravies, no excess spices. Instead, the flavor comes from fresh mustard oil … and slow heat, allowing the goat to cook in its own juices … creating a deeply smoky, earthy taste that feels, raw, bold, and honest.”

Honesty is a word you seldom hear in the culinary world, but it absolutely applies here. The goat, cooked off the bone, is incredibly tender, just slightly gamey, almost confit. The dish is meaty, succulent. There is heat, for sure (green chilies are included in the pot), and don’t count on the delicious garlic naans to ease your pain: They’re viciously spiced up as well! Rice becomes mandatory as you attempt to finish off the G.O.A.T.

There is much more to discover at Baazi. Along with the chicken sirka pyaaz, Priya Chopra likes to order the lobster Malabari ($32), and according to many, including ex-Pepsi Co-CEO Indra Nooyi, the 2-Day Dal Malkani (black lentils cooked for over 36 hours on charcoal heat, finished with butter) is not to be missed. The menu also includes “Street Gems” and “Small Plates,” but on the night of my visit, items from those sections were outshone by the main dishes, where Anand’s artistry really stood out. For four people, two or three entrées accompanied with rice and naan, should do the job.

Baazi’s interior is slick and gorgeous– there is some sophistication and posh to it but, somehow, the vibe is anything but pretentious, with a welcoming simplicity to the place. And it’s not just reflected in the decor; the restaurant’s eclectic crowd feels the same way, with celebs mingling with Indian-American families, business professionals, and single loyal customers from the neighborhood, all treated professionally and warmly by Baazi’s friendly staff.

Baazi is open for dinner only during the week (5 to 10 p.m.) and also open for brunch on weekends (noon till 3 p.m.). The restaurant remains open a little later Friday and Saturday (until 10:30 p.m.). Take out and delivery are available at these times, either by phone (646-861-3859) or through the restaurant’s ordering platform, called Awad (the name of the pre-pandemic version of the restaurant.)  Vegan and vegetarian options are plentiful and are clearly marked.

The Dishes: Chicken Sirka Pyaaz ($22) and G.O.A.T Bihari ($26)
The Restaurant: Baazi: 2588 Broadway (between West 97th and 98th Streets)

Read all Here’s the UWS Dish columns here.

Subscribe to West Side Rag’s FREE email newsletter here. And you can Support the Rag here.