By Meg A. Parsont
When I was recently standing on line at Zabar’s, I found myself chatting with the woman in front of me, as one does. Since we were talking about latkes for Hanukkah (which starts the evening of December 25), I asked her the all-important question: does she serve hers with applesauce or sour cream? “Oh, applesauce,” she replied emphatically. It may have been my imagination, but her lip seemed to curl slightly in disdain at the idea of serving latkes with sour cream.
In speaking with other people, I quickly realized what a hot-button topic this is. Applesauce purists often shudder at the notion of sour cream on their latkes, and vice versa. Others, like me, enjoy a bit of each with every crispy mouthful. And of course, for some, choice of accompaniment is determined by whether or not they keep kosher.
Out of curiosity, I perused the menu at Barney Greengrass on Amsterdam to see how they serve their latkes, and much to my surprise, didn’t see them on there. So, I checked in with Gary Greengrass, the third-generation owner, who let me in on a little secret: even though they’re not on the menu, Barney Greengrass does indeed serve potato latkes. His personal preference is for applesauce as an accompaniment, although they offer both sour cream and applesauce.
West Side Rag doesn’t dare take sides in the applesauce vs sour cream debate. Instead, we’re happy to share Zabar’s recipe for classic potato latkes, which provide the perfect culinary canvas for your accompaniment of choice. (Reprinted with permission from Zabar’s: A Family Story, with Recipes, by Lori Zabar, published by Shocken. Text © 2022 Lori Zabar.)
Ingredients
- 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and cut into quarters (about 10 oz.)
- 4 medium Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into eighths (about 3 lb.)
- 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 Tbsp. kosher salt
- 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- ¼–½ cups all-purpose flour, divided
- Vegetable oil, for frying
- Applesauce or sour cream for serving
Instructions
STEP 1
Using a box grater or food processor fitted with the fine grater blade, grate the onions; transfer to a colander set over the sink to drain and discard the liquid, then transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with the potatoes, then drain them as well, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible. Add the drained potatoes to the bowl along with the onions, then stir in the eggs, salt, and black pepper until thoroughly combined.
STEP 2
Mix in ¼ cup of the flour, then slowly add more flour a tablespoon at a time until the mixture
has the consistency of thick oatmeal (you may not need it all).
STEP 3
To a deep, heavy-bottomed skillet, add oil to a depth of 1 inch. Cook over medium-high heat until the oil is hot and shimmering (about 325° on a deep-fry thermometer). Line a large rimmed baking sheet with paper towels and set it by the stove.
STEP 4
When the oil is hot, drop in a scant ¼ cup of the mixture. Press down slightly with the back of a fork to form an even latke, about ¾ inch thick. Cook until the bottom and edges of the latke turn a deep golden brown, 2–3 minutes. Using a fork, metal spatula, or metal slotted spoon, flip the latke and continue cooking until evenly browned, 2–3 minutes more. Transfer to the lined baking sheet while you continue cooking the rest of the latkes. Serve hot or warm, with applesauce or sour cream on the side.
A bit of advice from Saveur magazine: “Don’t overmix your batter and remember: the thinner the latke, the crisper the fry.”
There are countless ways to get creative with latke accompaniments. One friend suggested taramasalata, while others splurge and top their latkes with a bit of caviar. I know someone who serves homemade cranberry sauce on the side. I’ve been known to put a dollop of creme fraiche on each latke topped with a sliver of Nova and a tiny sprig of dill, but at heart, I am and always will be an applesauce and sour cream gal.
For those who prefer to buy ready-made potato latkes, they can be purchased at Zabar’s (2245 Broadway), Murray’s Sturgeon Shop (2429 Broadway), The Kosher Marketplace (2442 Broadway), and Pastrami Queen (138 West 72nd Street), among other places on the Upper West Side.
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Applesauce for me! But I’m not offended by sour cream. 😉
Easy. Sour cream with a milchig (dairy) meal; applesauce with a fleishig (meat) meal. Both, if they’re the main dish. Latkes forever!
Both apple sauce and sour cream are on my latke plate at the same time. Where ever the fork or my hand goes is what goes in my mouth the latkes have no opinion!!!
Sour cream is evil. I bet Donald Trump uses sour cream when eating latkes with his Jewish grandchildren (or, knowing him, he uses ketchup, but I digress).
Applesauce all the way!
Hmm this is a little off-putting. I am from a small Polish town just outside of Detroit and a handful of Polish restaurants there typically serve their latkes with sour cream.
Applesauce is boss, sour cream makes the dream.
If you can’t decide which latka topping to use
use them both, and thank the Jews.
This debate is about as lame as pineapple on pizza
Your comment left me with a good chuckle!
Applesauce, Meg! No debate!!
I prefer both, but if forced to choose, sour cream and it’s not close.
Actually the debate is rather to shred or grate (the smaller or the elongated blades on the box cutter). Further more, start with your onion and grate the potato mixture into it –so it won’t turn brown-the onions stops the oxidizing. Also you must squeeze the hell out of the grated potatoes. I also add a bit of baking powder to the mixture. Some folks like the flatter crispy version, others (like me) like the fuller, more potato version. By the way, for the really upscale folks, they add fish roe (or caviar) to their sour cream.
Thank you! I was just about to ask, “What about the baking powder???” but you beat me to it. And for the record – sour cream. It’s a savory dish, not dessert!
Of course, once you’ve used the box cutter to grate or shred, then you have no doubt (though inadvertently) added flesh to the mixture, thus making apple sauce mandatory in your kosher home.
Sour cream!
They’re both fine. Here the great latke debate is whether the Trader Joe’s latkes are any good. I think the consensus is not really but it’s good to see latkes being brought to the masses.
Growing up my family was divided between some wanting applesauce and some wanting sour cream. Different traditions. I enjoy both.
With the large number of Jews who are lactose-intolerant, I’m surprised there’s a debate.
If you are having guests, serve both applesauce and sour cream.
Gretchen, stop trying to make latkes happen.
Here’s a suggestion: NEITHER! Why soak a hot crispy fried food with a cold and wet sauce that turns it soggy? They are perfectly delicious with just salt and pepper.
Absolutely!!! As long as you cook them like my wife does there’s nothing better than latkes with nothing on them.
If you are allergic to apples, then sour cream is a great choice. Actually, it’s a great choice anywise.
SOUR CREAM! ( but of course applesauce for those who want it….)
If the latkes taste the way my wife and her grandma made them then I don’t put anything on them. The latkes without dressing are great!
Born and raised in Philly and never heard of applesauce on latkes until i came to NY. Sour cream every time. All four grandparents from up and down the pale: Poland, Byelorussia, Ukraine and Romania. Wonder if that matters?
What about salsa as a latkes topping. Let’s innovate!
Apple sauce!
Happy Hanukkah!
Greek yogurt.
The real debate is whether to put salt or sugar on your matzoh meal latkes on Passover!!
Thanks to Melissa Clark (of the NYT) I made my best latkes ever this year. The key: Getting ALL the liquid out of your potato-onion mixture. The secret: Cheesecloth. Take a portion of your mix, wrap it in cheesecloth, and squeeze the hell out of it. Continue with the rest of your mix. The result: Soft and delicious inside, crispiest ever on the outside, even though — despite the admonition of “the thinner the latke the crispier the fry” — I make ’em nice and fat. (And yes, I added a bit of baking powder. So sue me.)
3/4″ sounds way to thick to me. Sour cream all the way.
You also don’t need one inch of oil.
You’re mixing “metaphors.” Applesauce with latkes; sour cream with blintzes.