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The Last Wooden Structure on the Upper West Side 

August 20, 2024 | 10:13 AM
in HISTORY, REAL ESTATE
28
Photographs by Kaylee DeFreitas.

By Kaylee DeFreitas 

In a time when the Upper West Side was made of dirt roads and Broadway was known as “the Boulevard,” a three-story wooden building emerged on the corner of 100th Street. 

Henry Grimm was a trailblazer on the UWS frontier in 1871 when he built the woodframe building, one of the tallest in the area at the time. In the years prior, New York City had been devastated by a number of large fires — most notably in 1776, 1835, and 1845 — leading to several laws which prohibited the construction of wooden buildings in the hopes of preventing future disasters. These bans started in 1816, but it wasn’t until 1882 that they expanded to everywhere below 155th street, including the Upper West Side. As this prohibition was not in place for 100th street in 1871, Grimm was able to build his wooden structure without issue, and even when the new laws encompassed the property, it was allowed to stay.

The building was designed in the popular Italianate style of the time, which draws from Italian medieval structures, with low-pitched roofing and ornamentation (both of which can still be seen today, albeit in a state of slight disrepair). The building first served as a grocery store (operated by Grimm) with rental units upstairs. Despite being one of the early entrepreneurs who had a hand in developing the booming UWS, Grimm quickly faced hardship and failure. According to an article by Tom Miller of Landmark West!, “…he [Grimm] lost his business and home to foreclosure just five years later.” 

As the years passed, the UWS began to build itself up around the Grimm Building. Bavarian brewer Peter Doelger took over the building in 1894, opening a saloon and restaurant on the first floor, while the upstairs remained residential units. Though the name may not mean much now, Doelger was a prolific figure during his time, known for bringing German lager to the people of New York, and he owned many saloons that were widespread across the boroughs as a way to promote and sell his brew. A remaining relic of his reach is on 96 Berry St in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, with a small glass sign over the door stating “Peter Doelger’s Extra Beer.” When Doelger died, he left an estate worth over seven million dollars, which translates to over 220 million dollars today after accounting for inflation. For an immigrant who came to the states with nothing, this estate was an amazing feat, all due to his brewing empire. 

Prohibition ended the building’s saloon days, and made way for significant renovations upstairs. According to Tom Miller, the upstairs windows were expanded from single panes to the “expansive show windows” that can be seen on the second floor today. In the early 30s, the third floor was covered by billboards, which were moved to the roof space by the early 40s. 

For a few years in the early to mid 1950s, the upstairs was an occupied studio and performance space for the experimental off-broadway group, The Living Theatre. Started in 1947 by Julian Beck and Judith Malina, it was formed to be “an imaginative alternative to commercial theatre,” according to the group’s website. The group was an early contributor to the off-Broadway movement and is considered the oldest experimental theatre group in the United States. Some of the famous faces that played a part within The Living Theatre included Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Frank O’Hara, and Tennesse Williams. While only serving as The Living Theatre’s home for a little less than two years, the upstairs, sixty-seat, performance space saw quite a few productions mounted. At the end of 1955, the Department of Housing and Buildings announced the final curtain on The Living Theatre, stating that for safety, the space could only seat eighteen instead of the original sixty. The troupe then sought refuge downtown. 

Photo credit: daytoninmanhattan.

By the 1980s, the wooden marvel on 100th street was beginning to show its age. The wood was rotting away and many of the upstairs windows were shattered and taped over. Despite the depressing exterior, history was still being made beneath the slats. On the first floor, a Cuban-Chinese fusion restaurant called La Tacita de Oro operated. And in the rundown upstairs apartment lived John Berry and his father. Berry was a founding member of punk band The Young Aborigines along with another, perhaps more recognizable band, The Beastie Boys. It was in this upstairs space that previously saw avant-garde performances, where The Beastie Boys performed their first ‘concerts’ and recorded their very first demos. Band member Michael Diamond described the building in The Beastie Boys Book, stating “…it was an old, squat, three-story wooden structure in the middle of a concrete jungle, like someone had forgotten to tear the place down when they were building the rest of the modern city.” 

The Beastie Boys moved on to bigger stages, but their memories from Berry’s ramshackle apartment stuck with them. In their Rock-and-Roll Hall of Fame induction speech in 2012, the group said, “To John Berry’s loft on 100th Street and Broadway where John’s dad would come busting in during our first practices screaming ‘would you turn that f*ing shit off already’.” 

In the early 90s, the building had fallen deeper into disrepair and was in desperate need of salvation. Since 1986, Landmark West! had allegedly been attempting to have the building landmarked by the city, to no avail. In 1993, Hilos Fotios and Fanis Tsiamtsiouris leased the building with plans to turn the first floor into a restaurant called Metro Diner. As they went into this business venture, they realized that the building itself needed extensive renovations to ensure it was safe for operation. These renovations included adding reinforcements to the structure, patching the roof, as well as replacing the wood paneling; a decision that was upsetting to some locals and preservationists. These changes were necessary though, according to Mr. Tsiantsiouris, as he said to The New York Times in 1993, “If we hadn’t done something, in a few years this building would have been someplace in the middle of Broadway.” 

Today the building is still occupied by Metro Diner, with Salon Above operating out of the upstairs unit that used to blast the early musings of The Beastie Boys and host off-Broadway performances. As the world around the Grimm building changes, it continues to serve as a reminder to passersby to look up and take in the understated beauty and history of the city around them. While it is constantly changing and old buildings come down and new ones go up, some things remain. A wooden shadow to the towering glass skyscrapers encroaching, one must wonder if in another 153 years the Grimm building will still be the one that remains while the others fall to time.

Don’t miss Kaylee DeFreitas’s fascinating tale of the “ghost station of 91st Street” — HERE.

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28 Comments
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Sarah
Sarah
8 months ago

Wow! Had no idea the Beasties got their start there.

9
Reply
Heather
Heather
8 months ago

Loved getting a deeper look into the history of this building! Great job WSR.

21
Reply
Andrew
Andrew
8 months ago

Great article – have passed by there so often and wondered if there was a good story behind this one wooden building that seems so out of place next to its neighbors.

5
Reply
BarbaraB
BarbaraB
8 months ago

Great story! Who actually owns the building now?

2
Reply
Mary
Mary
8 months ago

Prior to Metro’s takeover of the space, the long, low extension along the 100th Street side of the diner was occupied by a Kosher butcher, a bodega, a hair salon and Ajo Lumber (now located on Columbus Ave and 93rd St.)

10
Reply
Merrick Dean
Merrick Dean
8 months ago
Reply to  Mary

Oh I remember that Butcher! I moved into west 99th in 1975 -1976. I also remember very fondly La Tacita de Oro ! Great article, i loved it .

2
Reply
Julie
Julie
8 months ago

Two details of possible interest:

I knew of the building from the library world, as it was home to the longtime editor of “Library Journal”, John Berry III, who I recall told me pre-Beastie Boys that he lived in that odd wooden building north of 96th Street = https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/nytimes/name/john-berry-obituary?id=13065085.

The Museum of the City of oNY has a collection of nearly 600 photos of wooden buildings in (mostly) Manhattan, commissioned from photographer Charles Von Urban by a trustee of the museum in 1932 = https://collections.mcny.org/CS.aspx?VP3=DamView&VBID=24UP1GZTKN6X9#/DamView&VBID=24UP1GZTKNERI&PN=1&WS=SearchResults. Many were on the UWS, and further north.

14
Reply
Keddy
Keddy
8 months ago

What a great article. Thank you!

7
Reply
AnnieNYC
AnnieNYC
8 months ago

Is the third floor still residential?

0
Reply
Carmella Ombrella
Carmella Ombrella
8 months ago
Reply to  AnnieNYC

The third floor is an extension of Salon Above, which occupies the second floor. I only know this because the excellent A., who cuts my hair, works on the third floor and is well worth the extra flight of very steep stairs.

Last edited 8 months ago by Carmella Ombrella
1
Reply
Kathie K
Kathie K
8 months ago

Wow! Great article about the building of my fav diner on the USW! May it last far into the future!

4
Reply
Sailingsam
Sailingsam
8 months ago

Did Mae West have anything to do with the bilding?

0
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Dino Vercotti
Dino Vercotti
8 months ago

Great history. Would love a weekly column like this.

4
Reply
Jay
Jay
8 months ago

Because of the trees lining it, Broadway is still known as a boulevard.

1
Reply
Virvir
Virvir
8 months ago

Fascinating article. I’ve been a client of Salon Above for 20 years and have often wondered about the history of this building. Thanks for sharing it.

0
Reply
Nancy Peckenham
Nancy Peckenham
8 months ago

I lived in the loft for a few months in 1975, a guest of John Berry and his daughter Lizzie, my good friend and the brother of Johnny. John Berry, the editor–in-chief of Llibrary Journal, installed a swing in his living area on the second floor and would come home from work to sit in it with his cocktail and wave at passers-by on Broadway. The tenants in the ‘welfare hotel’ across 100th Street looked out for us. We heated the space with gas radiators that were lit with a match and our bathrooms were very basic. John once told me that a sewing factory was in the space before he got the lease for two floors and that he would find pins between the floorboards. When Johnny got together with his friends later to make music, he had serious run-ins with the Sullivanians on 101st St. who objected to their antics on the roof of the adjoining bodega. Interesting times.

11
Reply
Jon UWS Native
Jon UWS Native
8 months ago

Great piece!

0
Reply
Victoria Constan
Victoria Constan
8 months ago

I’m so glad that I was walking by and looking up and taking in this building and how old it was and wouldn’t it was and out of place it was and wonderful it was just when they were about to change it completely. I remember asking them man there is this building going to be landmarked? He gave me a very loud and nasty NO. And then I blinked and it became the metro diner I know and love. I’m just so happy I got to see that original building.

0
Reply
Heidi
Heidi
8 months ago

Thank you so much for this article! Always wanted to know more about this building….well done!

0
Reply
Jeremy Shatan
Jeremy Shatan
8 months ago

I spent a lot of time in the loft as John Berry’s good friend and the bass player in the Young Aborigines – but I still learned a few things from this article! Thanks for the in-depth look at a place that loomed large in my adolescence. Here’s a piece I wrote about John after he died: https://anearful.blogspot.com/2016/05/john-berry-wild-incandescence.html

4
Reply
Kashmira
Kashmira
8 months ago

I get my hair cut at Salon Above but never knew the history of the building. Fascinating! Thanks for such a great article.

1
Reply
Crankypants
Crankypants
8 months ago

Great article and how nice to see upbeat, interesting commentary too!

2
Reply
Allison
Allison
8 months ago

Is this the building that the Sullivanians owned or was that next door?

0
Reply
Ch
Ch
8 months ago

Such a great article – love hearing about the history of such a vibrant neighborhood.

0
Reply
Jeanie Galvan
Jeanie Galvan
8 months ago

I lived a few blocks away, ate at the Chinese Cuban restaurant and walked by all the noise banging from the upper floor during this time. I’m glad to see that this landmark has been saved. I Love NY! 💞Since 1980 she provided me with all I needed to grow as a human being, share my concerns, energy and the ability to move on with no regrets. 🤩✌️

0
Reply
Mark
Mark
8 months ago

La Tacita D’Oro: Ropa vieja, Cafe con Leche, Flan. Change back from your fiver.

0
Reply
Cita
Cita
8 months ago

Very much enjoyed this article – thank you!

0
Reply
Martin
Martin
8 months ago

Great article. Thank you. By the way, the cult known as the Sullivanian Institute owned the building next door, 2643 Broadway, and the white paint you can just make out in the photos here on the red brick wall above the Metro Diner building is part of their story. Google it for some fascinating local history!

1
Reply

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