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Missing Telepan

September 25, 2022 | 6:24 AM
in ART, FOOD, OPEN/CLOSED
24
Painting and Photograph by Robert Beck.

Upper West Side painter Robert Beck set up his easel and painted the block where his favorite restaurant used to be. He had company. Telepan, the beloved Michelin-starred restaurant at 72 West 69th Street, closed in 2016.

By Robert Beck

I miss Telepan. That was my special place. My Anniversary and Valentine’s place. I need impeccable now and then. I haven’t found much of that lately unless I pay a stupid amount of money, and then it loses its specialness. It becomes just expensive, and it damn well better have a dessert in the shape of Bono.

Telepan wasn’t cheap, but an evening there was always what it was supposed to be. Out of the ordinary. Not about different, about better. That’s something I remember when I look down that block. The delight.

I was painting in this spot when a construction worker came up behind me and stood watching for ten or fifteen minutes. He had a pneumatic drill resting on his shoulder—one of those big ones that weigh fifty or sixty pounds. I don’t know where he was going when I caught his eye, but at that moment, his interest was locked on what I was doing. He sighted directly past my ear, his eyes going from my panel, down the block and back with every stroke. After about five minutes, he swung the heavy drill down, leaned it against his stomach, and included my palette in his studies. He finally hiked the jackhammer back up on his shoulder, said “Nice,” and disappeared somewhere behind me.

It’s not uncommon. A plumber once parked his truck up on the sidewalk so he could run back and see what I was doing. It gives me hope in these days of darkness.

That stretch on 69th deserved a painting, especially with the splash of Columbus at the end of the block. It is definitely worth saying “Nice” about. It shows a human scale and evidence of how we live. A celebration of home, with stoops you can sit on. Not some slab architecture pressing up against the sidewalks where those last crumbs of return on investment are hiding. Nobody wants to look at that. Not even the guy who builds them.

Robert is losing his Upper West Side studio. Maybe you can help him find another. “The Upper West Side is my place,” he says. His needs are modest, if a bit unusual. Read about it here.

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24 Comments
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Isabel Gillies
Isabel Gillies
3 years ago

I miss Telepan too!!! My husband and I used to go there after the movies, on our anniversary, at Hanukkah to sit at the bar and eat Bill’s sublime Latkes. We went there to feel wonderful and we always did. Thanks for writing this. IG

13
Reply
Harriet
Harriet
3 years ago

Yes, it was also my “special” place. Found an excuse to go there generally twice a year. I remember how beautifully presented everything was, back in an era when that was uncommon.

2
Reply
Jeremy Robinson
Jeremy Robinson
3 years ago

Thank you Robert! Great piece about a restaurant that was indeed perfect for special occasions. It was also one of the first high quality restaurants on UWS when it opened. I miss it too!

3
Reply
Philip Henry
Philip Henry
3 years ago

You summed it up perfectly. We miss it as well. It was a quality, special place.

4
Reply
David Tillyer
David Tillyer
3 years ago

And…I love the painting…realistic but ethereal

3
Reply
NycNat
NycNat
3 years ago

Same here, Robert. It was such a special and delicious place for a birthday dinner, a long meal with good friends, or some pizza and a glass of wine at the bar after a movie. (And the latkes!)

1
Reply
Run For Your Lives
Run For Your Lives
3 years ago

The loss of fine dining establishments (Talipan, Dovetail) on the UWS was like a canary-in-the-coal mine for the descent into the fast-food, bike-&-scooter-chaos, no-parking, open-air mental ward, killing fields that the UWS has become.

Run For Your Lives.

14
Reply
Jon
Jon
3 years ago
Reply to  Run For Your Lives

The comments section desperately needs a downvote button.

6
Reply
Mary
Mary
3 years ago
Reply to  Run For Your Lives

You’re comparing hectic traffic conditions to the Cambodian genocide? There’s hyperbole and then there’s whatever that is. Please dial it back.

10
Reply
Elisabeth Jakab
Elisabeth Jakab
3 years ago

What a lovely painting, thank you for sharing it. So sorry about Telepan, and about your losing your studio. Wishing you much success in finding another studio. As for another Telepan, who knows – so many closings on UWS.

2
Reply
Nancy
Nancy
3 years ago

Great piece and painting – human scale, a beautiful block and neighborhood, and a jewel of a restaurant whose tastes and room still glows in so many memories.

4
Reply
Ivan
Ivan
3 years ago

Telepan was our anniversary, birthday and valentine’s place as well. One special memory was when Chef Telepan had to greet us before seating as his maitre de was otherwise occupied. We miss it!

3
Reply
Anik
Anik
3 years ago

Ah, Telepan…the setting for a few memorable anniversaries. I was just wondering, wistfully, a few days ago, whether Bill Telepan would ever open another restaurant…should NYC be so fortunate!

2
Reply
Amy Axler
Amy Axler
3 years ago
Reply to  Anik

Bill Telepan is running food service across the park at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I’ve managed to snag a couple of memorable meals in the dining room. True, not as cozy and convenient but you must admit it’s one helluva entrance!

1
Reply
mking
mking
3 years ago

Bill is a one of a kind chef. He is not only incredibly talented but he is also very charitable having created a non profit “Wellness in the schools” program to feed kids healthier meals in the public school system.

https://www.wellnessintheschools.org/event/wellness-in-the-schools-gala-2022/

Having worked with so many talented chefs he is one of the few epicurean standouts with NO EGO.
I agree, that he is very missed in this enclave of the UWS but as someone mentioned, you can find him at the MET still being creative.

4
Reply
Otis
Otis
3 years ago

I ate at Telepan once. I went with my wife and in-laws. OK, the meal was good (not outstanding but good) but the bill came to several hundred dollars. Keep in mind this was probably ten years ago.

Not many people can afford these prices and very few expensive restaurants like this last very long, especially on the UWS.

2
Reply
Mking
Mking
3 years ago
Reply to  Otis

The idea behind Telepan was no different from Lincoln at Lincoln Center or Boulud Sud. They are considered destination or special occasion restaurants as someone mentioned. It was only a few blocks up from LC which is why it felt more a part of the neighborhood.
This was NOT supposed to be The Ribbon although the appetizers were always big and nothing like restaurants are serving post pandemic.

1
Reply
Scott Schaffer
Scott Schaffer
3 years ago
Reply to  Otis

Agreed, I ate there as well. The food was fine, but the prices were incredibly high. It was a “one and done” for me.

0
Reply
Huh
Huh
3 years ago
Reply to  Otis

Most people here noted that it was a special occasion place. Unfortunately restaurants can’t survive on 3 or 4 time a year customers unless they are in a high traffic area like midtown that attract more people and a steady string of tourists and business travelers .

1
Reply
NelsonAspen
NelsonAspen
3 years ago

When I lived on 69th, a bar meal at Telepan was a weekly ritual and sorely missed. Bill is also a mensch and contributed a recipe to my book “Dinner at Nelson’s.” He is a talented chef, good neighbor and nice guy. Good luck with the apartment search…69th is a very special street!

2
Reply
Karen
Karen
3 years ago

Try LISTINGS PROJECT for renting a studio or listing for a studio.This sight is owned by an artist.

0
Reply
lil
lil
3 years ago

That strawberry granita and italian bread soup! I still miss them. Chef Telepan is a wonderful, generous guy who tried to give an amazing meal for a fair price. True, several hundred per meal is not an every week thing for most families but it was a very good value as special occasion meals went with the ability to choose from either three or four panels. I will check out his new digs across the park.

1
Reply
Barbara
Barbara
3 years ago

You are an excellent painter and writer. I would love to see your works if you are showing them anywhere:)

0
Reply
J.S.E.
J.S.E.
3 years ago

Bill Telepan is a gem and a wonderful human being who supports food programs in our public schools. He’s currently managing the food services at the Metropolitan Museum of Art – go and support him there!!

0
Reply

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