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The newest trend in high-end white wines is coming from an unexpected location. Old world, old-vine, complex white wines at a fraction of the cost of their Italian and French counterparts are coming from a popular vacation destination that is beginning to receive more attention lately in the wine world. Santorini might be better known as another beautiful island stop on an island tour of the Cyclades, but is getting recent attention for the quality of its wines.
“If the French had possession of the island for winemaking, they would never stop talking about it,” says Dionysi Grevenitis, founder of DNS Importers, and Greek wine expert. Classically known to the Greeks as Thera, this volcanic island is the believed to be the source of the legend of Atlantis and caused the rapid decline of the Minoan Empire after its violent eruption resulted in massive tidal waves that caused massive destruction. The rocky volcanic formation that rose out of the Aegean to form the island produces wines that express a distinct, volcanic minerality. These are ultra-dry wines, whose focus is on the unique, exquisite terroir of the island.
The preferred white variety is called Assyrtiko, and somehow in a notoriously hot, windy and dry climate, this noble variety produces dry, crisp, fresh wines from vines older than any other white wine producers in Europe. To combat the heat, the winemakers harvest their grapes earlier than other regions. To combat the wind, the winemakers weave something like a basket out of the thick vines themselves and grow the fruit inside. And despite the dryness, these grapes are regularly watered by ocean mist or fog, which coats the grapes and lends itself to a long, savory finish, with a touch of salinity.
Make sure you try the Assyrtiko sooner rather than later as prices are trending upward with every harvest. Worldwide demand is constantly growing and because of the tiny islands size, vineyard expansion is not an option. The widest selection of these fantastic white wines can be found in the neighborhood at the restaurant Elea on 85th between Broadway and Amsterdam. This authentic Greek spot delivers great Assyrtiko bottles from the top island winemakers. I recommend checking out their higher end options on Monday’s when all wine bottles are half off.
