UWS FOOD ADVENTURES: PERHAPS THE BEST CHAI IN THE CITY, AND MORE

By Josh Goldblatt

As mentioned in my prior dispatch, there are not one, but two South Asian delis on Upper Columbus, between 106th and 107th Streets. Last time we took a look at Doaba Deli, the establishment run by a man from the Indian state of Punjab. In this episode, let us consider Gujrat Deli, which is run by a Pakistani family.

Gujrat has been around longer than Doaba, about 5 years according to the owner’s cousin, who frequently tends shop.  It is much smaller than Doaba and more modest in its offerings.  In addition to the prepared foods, there are some dry goods and supplies for sale: medicine, hardware such as screwdrivers and tape measures, roasted corn, and quite a selection of biscuits and crackers. Things that come in handy for cab drivers, I presume?

Let’s cut to the chase: Gujrat does not have the variety of dishes that Doaba has.  Nor, as Doaba’s owner pointed out, does it have the plethora of freshly made breads.  The offerings at Gujrat seem fresh enough, although one gets the feeling they’ve been sitting out a bit longer.  There isn’t the same vibrancy and complexity found at Doaba, but do not get the impression that Gujrat is not a worthy destination.  As we will see, there is at least one important reason to pay a visit.

Like Doaba, the system for ordering can be a bit vague.  When you walk in there is a glass case where the various dishes reside. While Doaba is strictly vegetarian, there are meat offerings at Gujrat.  It was hard to detect any strict cost system, although whether you choose all meat, all veggie, or a combination, you won’t be set back much more than $7, including an ample portion of rice.

All dishes sampled by this reporter were enjoyable, some more than others.  The dal (stewed lentils) was rich and smoky, and the chana (chickpeas) made their home in a flavorful gravy that was thicker – and more flavorful, I thought – than the more watery version I tasted at Doaba.  Chicken tikka was tender and flavorful, better than many dry examples I’ve tasted throughout the city (which isn’t to say it’s a gourmet work of art, but it’s definitely serviceable).  If asked if you want green sauce, oblige.  If not asked, make a point of requesting it.  While a little on the liquidy side, the cilantro-based condiment is pungent and cuts many of the richer, oily dishes quite well.

There is one area in which Gujrat clearly shines, and that’s  in their chai, or spiced tea. A South Asian friend of mine claims Gujrat has the best chai in the city, and a review on Yelp echoed the same sentiment, saying it’s better than anything you can get outside the subcontinent.  And for sure, it is a satisfying chai, made the old-fashioned way in a cauldron.  Even in the stifling heat we’ve been experiencing, it was a pleasure to sip.

For the food adventurer, of course you will want to try both.  For those less inclined to spend time and money just for the sake of expanding your culinary horizons, here is my suggestion: go to Doaba and get some breads and the vegetarian platter.  Then walk across the street to Gujrat and get a chai to go.  There is nothing wrong with picking the best of both worlds.

Gujrat Deli
946 Columbus Avenue
(212) 866-2937

Josh Goldblatt, an Upper West Sider, also writes at foodandpants.com.