By Yana Krasnitskaya
I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with crab cakes. They sound good in theory, but in practice they can be disappointing: too soggy, too dense (or crumbly); sometimes too bland; and all too often, more bread than crabmeat.
Still, there’s nothing like a good one. So when I saw Maryland-style crab cakes on the menu at The Shell Seafood Kitchen, I took a leap of faith and placed my order.
I’d gone to the restaurant with friends who live around the corner and raved about it. Occupying the space formerly held by Blockheads on the quiet corner of West 91st and Amsterdam Avenue, it’s a “blink and you’ll miss it” kind of place, full of interesting seafood options. Though the Rag covered its opening three years ago, I wasn’t living here at the time, and might never have noticed it had my friends not pitched it as a very neighborhood-friendly seafood spot with a great fish selection and a solid raw bar.
Part of the extensive appetizer section of The Shell’s menu, the Maryland crab cake is a puck-sized round of succulent jumbo lump crab meat mixed with the usual mayonnaise and egg, seasoned with paprika, then breaded in panko bread crumbs and fried. It’s served atop a layer of sweet corn mixed with bell pepper cream sauce, and served with a dollop of aioli on top.
One of the things that made The Shell’s crab cake stand out for me is the balance of ingredients. There was just enough mayonnaise and egg to bind the batter, but not too much — which meant that when I bit into the crab cake, the first thing I tasted was the subtle smoky sweetness of the meat. The meat itself was tender, juicy and the fry on the coating called to mind the ocean and sand of a New England coastline.
The seasoning here was also spot on. A typical crab cake includes Old Bay or another Chesapeake-style spice blend, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, parsley, and of course salt and pepper. This crab cake had all that, plus a very cool addition of paprika, which immediately stood out on the palate; it also dusted the plate. The corn and bell pepper accompaniment also let the crab cake shine, providing the textural compliment that made the entire bite feel cohesive. It went down incredibly smoothly when chased by a sip of the crisp, floral Sancerre ($20) — the white wine I always pair with my seafood.
What else is good at The Shell? I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the desserts, in particular, the pecan pie ($18), which comes as a mini pie for two, with a generous dollop of vanilla ice cream. It had the perfect nutty flavor with that lovely aftertaste of burnt sugar and honey. The crust, a classic shortbread, was light and crisp – your spoon could cut right through it, and when paired with the ice cream, it was honestly one of the best sweet bites I’ve had in a long time. If you are allergic to nuts or don’t like pecan pie, Tiramisu is a good choice as well.
I was really impressed by one of their specials: the clam chowder. The classic New England soup was perfectly brothy, with just a touch of cream, and had generous amounts of clams, potatoes, and carrots, among other vegetables. It was herbaceous and perfectly cozy without being too heavy. On a breezy September evening, it really hit the spot.
Speaking of specials, The Shell has a rotating slate of offers. There’s a daily happy hour from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. where you can get discounts on dishes like fish & chips, oysters for $1.99 and wines, cocktails, and draft beers priced from $6 to $9. They also offer a Senior’s Special Prix-Fixe menu daily from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. for only $39.
In a world of rising food costs and often-times overpriced restaurants, I appreciate that a place like The Shell has these types of offers–making their delicious and fresh seafood fare accessible to more people. Definitely a neighborhood spot worth checking out, especially if you’re on the hunt for a great crab cake like I am.
The Dish: Maryland crab cake appetizer ($18)
The Restaurant: The Shell Seafood Kitchen, 635 Amsterdam Avenue (at West 91st Street) Open Monday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m., and Sunday, 3 to 10 p.m.
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