Here’s the Dish: Panineria’s Chicken Parm

By Yana Krasnitskaya

Recently, having spent some time away from New York City, I had an intense craving for something that I’ve only ever been able to get here (well, here and in Italy): a really good Italian sandwich. Though there is no shortage of great sandwich spots on the Upper West Side, I decided to try one that was new to me: Panineria, the not-quite-year-old cafe on Amsterdam Avenue.

The name translates roughly to “sandwich shop” in Italian—fitting for a small, family-run chain in which sandwiches and panini are the main attractions. Founded in 2014 in Greenwich Village by Mario Pesce, a native of Naples, Italy, Panineria is modeled in part on his father’s sandwich shop back home, and uses some of his nonna’s recipes. As soon as I stepped inside, I felt that cozy cafe/sandwich-counter vibe. It also helps that the entire place smelled like bread. Yum.

The sandwich menu at Panineria is extensive, but after a bit of a debate, I decided to go with the chicken Parm. I had two options for bread: ciabatta or baguette. The latter cost an additional $2.25, but that was what I was craving, so I didn’t mind paying extra. The bread was toasted, then brushed generously with a mix of garlic and Italian seasoning, along with a couple of dabs of olive oil. That was followed by a breaded organic chicken cutlet, the thickness of which was just right: not too thin, not too thick, with a perfect balance of breading and wonderfully tender white meat. House-made tomato sauce was then spooned over the cutlet so as to coat it nicely but not over do it. The crowning jewels were the generous rounds of fresh mozzarella that were laid on top and melted so beautifully once the sandwich was placed under a broiler. Before that happened though, the sandwich was finished off with shaved Parmesan, which I found to be very inspired, as it provided that nutty, salty finish that I often find myself craving.

There is a reason why chicken Parmesan is such a crowd pleaser, whether it’s served as an entree or pressed together between deliciously crispy and yeasty baguette. Between the juiciness of the chicken, the tangy sweetness of the tomato sauce, and the perfect melty mozzarella, it was hard to tell which component was my favorite—I could only concentrate on the joy the combination brought me. I also appreciated the hints of oregano and garlic, which were more of an olfactory experience but contributed nonetheless.

If you’re not into chicken parm, there’s a whole section of Panineria’s menu dedicated to other classic Italian sandwiches (as well as a smaller selection of pastas and other classic Italian dishes for takeout or dining in). I also tried the Valtellina sandwich. Named for a valley in northern Italy, it featured high-quality braseola (air-dried cured beef), shaved Parmesan (hello again, friend), arugula and a generous glug of olive oil. As you can see from the photo, I also got it on a baguette – and I’m so glad I did. The moment I sliced into it and saw that perfect crumb, I knew I’d made the right decision. I’ve had a variation of this sandwich at other places over the years, and what Panineria does better than most is is achieve a balance of flavors by carefully controlling the amount of each ingredient in the sandwich. They don’t skimp on the arugula, which I like, because the subtle braseola flavor needs this counterpart, as much as it needs the sharpness from the cheese. The olive oil is a key player here, reminding both your stomach and your mind that this is no ordinary sandwich.

Upon reflection, I found the two sandwiches I got to show the full breadth of what Panineria had to offer. From its saucy, ooey-gooey chicken parm to the more sturdy, uncompromising Valtellina, this endearing family-run sandwich shop (which, in addition to the UWS location, has locations on the Upper East Side and in Greenwich Village) is definitely a place I’ve bookmarked for the next time I’m in the mood for a hearty, comforting meal that won’t break the bank.

The Dish: Chicken Parm sandwich ($16.74) and Valtellina ($13.02)
The Restaurant: Panineria 616 Amsterdam Avenue (at West 89th Street). Open Sunday to Tuesday, 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Wednesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

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