Here’s the UWS Dish: Crave Fishbar’s Icelandic Cod Milanese

By Yana Krasnitskaya

In the summer, I often find myself craving meals that are flavorful but won’t leave me feeling weighed down. So it might seem a little counterintuitive that this week I’m writing about fried fish – a dish that isn’t usually considered “light.” But bear with me on this, because Crave Fishbar’s Icelandic Cod Milanese isn’t just any fried fish.

The restaurant is located on that always-buzzing strip of Amsterdam in the 80s, and the first thing I noticed was the lovely outdoor seating area that spilled onto the sidewalk. Covered by a metal slanted roof and decorated with greenery, the space felt intimate – and as the evening fell, the twinkling lights adorning the veranda gave it a fairy-tale vibe. Inside, the restaurant’s front room featured a long, proper bar with comfy looking stools (with backs! Bar stools should always have backs!) on one side, and several two- and four-top seaters on the other. There was also a rear mezzanine that was decidedly more private, especially if you choose to dine early like I did.

The color scheme, a lovely mix of light blue and wood and gray, made me feel like I was in a New England seaside cafe, which may explain why, when I decided on the Icelandic Cod Milanese ($38) as my entrée, I was picturing it as closer in style to fish and chips than the Italian classic it was named for.

When the dish arrived, it greeted me like an old friend – simple but oh so very comforting. As I noted earlier, fried food isn’t usually considered a “light” meal. But the breading on this fish – made from rice flour – was extremely light but also very crunchy and – most importantly –  not greasy! The fish itself had a melt-in-your mouth quality, and it was covered by a vibrant green mountain of ribboned kale topped with a fine mesh of Parmesan cheese. Next to it on the plate was a little metal dish of harissa aioli, which immediately called to mind a really good tartar sauce, but with a smoky and slightly spicy twist. Completing the dish was a very crucial charred half lemon that I diligently squeezed over each forkful: kale first, then a good chunk of cod, followed by a fearless dip into the aioli, a necessary squeeze of lemon and … bon appetite! I don’t know what kind of magic they were doing in that kitchen but this was one of the most perfectly composed bites of fried fish I’ve ever had. It paired particularly well with a sip of crisp floral Sancerre ($22), though it would be just as good if you’re not up for imbibing.

My friend and I also split a few appetizers. The undisputed winner was the Tri Color Crudo ($22), which features three types of fish – lightly seared tuna, salmon, and yellowtail sitting in a shallow pool of lemon parsley sauce that felt like an explosion on the tongue. If you like tangy, bright pieces of fish, this is the appetizer for you. It’s also beautiful – I audibly gasped when the server brought it over to our table.

We also had the watermelon side ($12): large chunks of cubed fruit dotted with a generous amount of crumbled feta, bits of mint, and popped quinoa. The latter was a nice textural surprise and the side overall was a nice palate cleanser, especially between bites of the lemony fish crudo. All in all, this meal really hit the spot and felt like something I could eat on a regular basis. Exactly what I had been aiming for that evening.

One of the coolest things about Crave is its commitment to sustainability. While that can sometimes be a buzzword, the team behind Crave’s three restaurants — in addition to the UWS, there are locations in Midtown and on the Upper East Side —  has partnered with the Monterey Bay Aquarium to help them evaluate the sustainability of their menu items. They also raise money for the Billion Oyster Project, and aim to reduce waste where possible, which is a big component of sustainability efforts that often get overlooked.

On the way out of the restaurant around 9 p.m., I stopped to pet a giant dog that was sitting at the feet of a group on the crowded veranda. They had one of Crave’s massive seafood towers on at their table – gleaming oysters, large pink crab legs, beautiful fat shrimp – and I struck up a conversation, asking them if they ate at Crave often. Yes, one of them replied, especially on Mondays, when they have a $1 oysters and martini combo that can’t be beat. “Plus,” he added, “it’s very cute.”

He is right. The space is very cute; and who can say no to an oyster and an ice cold martini? If you don’t visit Crave for their take on fish and chips (don’t come for me! I still think that), then you should definitely check it out their rotating specials. They’re bound to satisfy any seafood craving you might have, especially on a beautiful New York City evening.

The Dish: Icelandic Cod Milanese ($38)
The Restaurant: Crave Fishbar, 428 Amsterdam Avenue (at West 81st Street). Open Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m.

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