Here’s the UWS Dish: Koo Thai’s Steak Jim Jaew

By Abigael T. Sidi

In a city replete with fine steakhouses, we Upper West Siders reluctantly must admit: It’s excruciatingly difficult to find a good steak in the neighborhood. But what if I told you that a seriously great ribeye can be had at … a seemingly random Thai joint on a corner of Manhattan Valley, and that it’s one of the best deals in town?

Dear readers, I present to you the 8- to 10-ounce, $38-only, Steak Jim Jaew, served at the recently opened and low-key trendy Koo Thai, on Columbus and West 105th Street.

A dish more commonly known as “Crying Tiger” (suea rong hai; as in a steak so good it would make tigers cry), Koo Thai’s Steak Jim Jaew consists of a massive, thinly sliced ribeye – preferably cooked rare – served with nam jim jaew, the classic, punchy and tangy Thai dipping sauce. You will find it in the Chef’s Specials section of the menu.

“It’s actually not meant to be served as an entrée, but as an appetizer; in Thailand, it is typically shared along with cocktails,” Koo Thai server Oy B. said. (“No way I’m sharing this beauty with anyone,” I secretly thought, though I welcomed Oy’s surprising comment and, for a split second there, considered moving to Bangkok.)

Never in a million years would I have imagined that the steak would be this big (weight wasn’t indicated in the description, plus the price was under 40 bucks) or, more important, taste this good. Juicy, tender with just the right chew, gorgeous beefy flavor and with charry undertones from the charcoal grill, this was a superb steak I was having for half the price — maybe even less — of comparable steaks anywhere else in the borough.

In fact, the steak was so delicious that I initially boycotted the jim jaew sauce, devouring more than half of my meat before I went for my first dip. Of course, the punch and tang of the lime, chiles and fish sauce immediately exploded in my mouth, and the overall bite was now more akin to a classic Thai beef salad (minus the crunch from shallots and cucumbers; for a good and affordable steak salad, head to Raenu.)

After another dip, I decided it would be criminal to continue neutralizing the great juices from my ribeye, and I finished my steak dipless, with a few forks of the airy, perfectly cooked basmati rice. (Ultimately, I would pour the sauce all over the side salad, and eat that too.)

The menu at Koo Thai is very traditional and does not try to wow you with creative-sounding or -looking dishes like, say, Sala Thai’s. Instead, Koo Thai prioritizes “authenticity and execution, as in Northeast Thailand,” Oy B. said. Other dishes we’ve tried at Koo include the classic but fresh and crunchy green papaya salad (which is low on the lime, fish sauce and heat meters, letting the fruits and veggies shine; $14.95), and curry dishes ($17.95) such as the creamy, hearty and velvety massaman curry, which can be had with any protein you like (+$2), or tofu.

Reflective of Koo Thai’s high-quality cuisine, the place is always packed with Thai patrons, but the secret is out and neighborhood regulars of all ages and ethnicities will also be in line for one of the eight to 10 tables or the four seats at the bar. Like the menu, the place itself boasts a classic but no fuss Thai décor, with a wooden bar and features that offer a rather homey and intimate atmosphere.

Koo Thai is open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day, with pickup and delivery available at these times. Vegetarian and vegan options available and clearly marked.

The Dish:
Steak Jim Jaew ($38)

The Restaurant:
Koo Thai: 917 Columbus Avenue (corner of West 105th Street)

Read all Here’s the UWS Dish columns here.

Subscribe to West Side Rag’s FREE email newsletter here. And you can Support the Rag here.