By Yvonne Vávra
“I’d never seen a street as wide and stately as this one, with doormen standing in front of apartment houses of imposing height that lined the avenue for a mile and a half,” wrote Vivian Gornick in The Odd Woman and the City. “My friend told me that in these great stone buildings lived musicians and writers, scientists and émigrés, dancers and philosophers. Very soon no trip downtown was complete without a walk on West End from 107th Street to Seventy-Second. For me, the avenue became emblematic. To live here would mean I had arrived.”
That sense of awe, that longing — I know it well. There’s something about West End Avenue that stirs aspiration, a desire to reach a destination. For me, that’s also about arriving at a place that resists the constant motion of the city. A place to rest and feel at ease.
There’s no rush here, no errands to run, no need to go faster, higher, further. West End Avenue offers respite from the chaos. It’s the very idea of home, wrapped in charming facades, wide sidewalks, and canopies. Walking down this road means you probably belong here.
I come here to breathe. Despite Broadway’s bustle being my element, there’s comfort in knowing that I just need to turn a corner to escape to a world where time has no place. I can almost picture the kids turning West End into their marble playground, as Lyla Blake Ward recounts in her memoir Broadway, Schrafft’s and Seeded Rye—Growing Up Slightly Jewish on the Upper West Side. “In the thirties, there was so little traffic we actually shot our marbles right across the avenue,” Ward wrote. “If an occasional car or truck wanted to go through, we stepped back and gave them safe passage. But for the most part, we had exclusive use of the road from gutter to gutter.”
Remember, I said almost, I could almost picture it! But, seriously, nothing seems to ever change here. The proof is in the four phone booths — on West 66th, 90th, 100th, and 101st streets — icons of another New York, defying the end of their era. They’re the last ones still standing in all of New York City.
It wasn’t supposed to be this quiet. This month marks the 145th anniversary of the creation of West End Avenue, when the stretch of 11th Avenue from West 59th Street to West 107th Street was renamed as part of a grand vision for the rapidly growing neighborhood. The planners originally conceived of it as a bustling retail street, lined with shops and businesses for the wealthy residents of Riverside Drive and Broadway to enjoy. But instead, West End became dominated by apartment buildings.
Today, you’ll find a mix of postwar architecture and some commercial activity south of the 70s, while to the north, occasional stretches of brownstone blocks add a touch of historic charm. But for the most part, you walk through a landscape of 14- to 16-story buildings, all resembling one another like members of the same family, their uniformity offering a soothing calm as you make your way toward Straus Park.
But first, let’s pick up a smile from one of my favorite Upper West Siders: the rhino, who’s been hanging out in West End Park between West 63rd and 64th streets since 1975 — on snout end, that is. This bronze sculpture by Nobi Shioya brings the kind of joy that comes with having absolutely no idea what’s going on. You’ll have plenty of questions. We’re looking at a rhino here, butt up, snout down, its horn wedged in a boulder, all while being scrutinized by a nearby salamander.
As we marvel at the rhino’s unconventional stance, we’re reminded that West End Avenue has long been a place where creativity manifests in the most marvelous ways. Strolling uptown, we share the sidewalk with the spirits of countless artistic minds who once called this avenue home. Take the Apthorp between West 78th and 79th — how many times did Nora Ephron step through this gate onto West End Avenue, mulling over her latest ideas? This very place literally saved her heart, here she became one of the keenest observers of the Upper West Side, making the entire world fall in love with the neighborhood through her romantic comedies.
Another Apthorp resident, Joseph Heller, conceived the first lines of Catch-22 one morning in 1953 in his apartment. Sergei Rachmaninoff lived just a few blocks further north, at 505 West End, at the corner of 84th Street, where he completed his Piano Concerto No. 4 and many other pieces in an apartment he called “Moscow at the Hudson.” The lyrics to Take Me Out to the Ball Game, arguably one of the most-sung songs in the U.S., were penned at 624 West End Avenue, near West 90th Street, by John “Jack” Norworth.
Comic book genius Stan Lee, creator of Iron Man, Spider-Man, Black Panther, Captain America, and many other Marvel icons, grew up at the corner of West End and West 98th Street. Tap-dancing legend Harold Nicholas lived just one block north, at number 789. And Madeleine L’Engle, author of A Wrinkle in Time, called the Clebourne at 105th Street home.
And that’s just the past. Today, Tina Fey, Joel Coen, Frances McDormand, and many other artists are making their way home on West End Avenue—alongside countless Upper West Siders quietly creating magic every day, their names known only to those lucky enough to cross their paths.
At times, moments of creativity on West End have unfolded for all to see — and not to everyone’s delight. The final shot of Barbra Streisand’s The Mirror Has Two Faces takes place in front of 505 West End Avenue at the corner of West 84th Street. Remember? That was also Rachmaninoff’s “Moscow on the Hudson.” In the scene, Streisand and Jeff Bridges break free from their previous misunderstandings of love, reclaim their marriage, and dance down the wide expanse of West End Avenue under the rising morning sun. Neighbors were divided about the early morning filming on May 3, 1996, which included a blast of Streisand’s I Finally Found Someone blaring over loudspeakers. “Barb, we love you, but not at 6 a.m.!” someone yelled out their window, as reported by The New York Times.
The shot is worth it, I’d say. Our avenue becomes a gateway to an open future, toward personal growth, freedom from the confusions of the past, and the promise that the next chapter will always begin. Until the end.
But of course, as West End Avenue teaches us, the end is never truly the end. There’s always Riverside.
* * *
Yvonne Vávra is a magazine writer and author of the German book 111 Gründe New York zu lieben (111 Reasons to Love New York). Born a Berliner but an aspiring Upper West Sider since the 1990s (thanks, Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks), she came to New York in 2010 and seven years later made her Upper West Side dreams come true. She’s been obsessively walking the neighborhood ever since.
Great piece.. thanks for sharing and passing the history of this neighborhood to new upper west siders…
I grew up at 800 West End at 99th St from 1925 to 1936 and now live at 305 West End (Assisted Living) so I really enjoyed reading the history of the avenue and its famous residents. I have many stories I could tell too!
Wow. What a great post from someone who sure has been around our beloved West End block. Thanks for giving us this singular perspective.
What a lovely, lovely piece of writing, and what a fascinating stroll down our favorite avenue. Thanks.
Love it! Danke! : ) I live on Riverside but West End always brings me joy with its quiet and its beautiful, long views to the north and south, and up to the gargoyles and swirls of its big and small buildings. I am so grateful to live here! Write us a piece about Riverside! : )
Very nice and well researched article Yvonne. now WestEnd has people from many other continents on it and as Indian American, I think our family has added to the color by walking down the avenue in sari’s, kurtas and other garments once considered exotic, but now normal! Have lived and raised my sons here for 25 years and there is no other place like this avenue to raise a family in NYC- it’s our own community.
Wonderful, thank you!
I went to the Pardee School of Music on West End Ave, I think it was on the west side of the street around 82nd or 83rd in a brownstone. That was in the mid 40’s t0 the mid 50’s. Much to my parent’s dismay, I never really took to the piano.
Wonderful article. Thank you. I have lived in several apartments on West End Avenue for the last 20 years and love it. I am so close to all of the activity that makes New York City so wonderful, yet it is also a haven of peace and quiet. I am very fortunate to live where I do.
I have always been frustrated by residents of my building whose goal is to turn our pre-war gem into some shiny new glass downtown condo. Yes, updates and maintenance are very important, but if you move here, appreciate it for what it is. Because there are few places like it.
And we want to remember and honor the late great James Baldwin who lived on West End Avenue in 1964, according to the historical marker I have seen on his building there. I read about his mother living there in the book The Three Mothers (How the mothers of Martin Luther King, Jr., Malcolm X and James Baldwin shaped a nation), and I live on West End and am always comforted by seeing the plaque there.
West End Ave is boring, sorry.
Hey, I bet you want neon lights and a fast food store on every block.
Actually no Carol, but I lived at 82nd and Riverside for 9 long months after having been at 72nd and Columbus. I thought I’d love the peace & quiet. Instead I was weirdly freaked out by there being no one on the streets, and irritated by having to walk five blocks to get to a Starbucks. 5 blocks to get my coffee !! TOO FAR, So I moved back. I need to see people when I look out my window.
Does WSR have a thumbs down function? Talk about a party pooper.
Thank you for this appropriate riposte. WEA has been a much beloved home for over 50 years.
My first employer after college in 1980 was Dorothy Olim, who specialized in producing and managing Off-Broadway plays and musicals for many decades – she lived on West End Avenue around 83rd st. Dorothy was one of the original producers of “The Fantasticks” which is the world’s longest running musical of over 17,000 performances. I worked for Dorothy when she had her own management and advertising agencies, Dorothy Olim Associates, and Krone Olim Advertising. She taught me a lifetime of ways to be successful in commercial theatre during the 1980’s and she was a well-respected professional by the Broadway and Off-Broadway community (including Actors Equity and ATPAM). Dorothy lived well into her 90’s on West End Avenue and she was directly responsible for making many productions stand the test of time! Another great UWS resident!
James Baldwin lived at 470 West End Ave in 1964.
Baldwin was a brief exception. WEA was a segregated and discriminatory neighborhood. Landlords prevented Black applicants from renting. I lived on WEA since 1964 and for a while worked with a civil rights group doing “testing.”
Interesting. I knew of a Black-owned multi-family building on upper WEA. The family had owned the building since the early or mid-1960’s, I am sure, living in the parterre apt and renting out the upper floor units.
Yes, I probably know that family — especially the famous and marvelous “art collecting” woman who had worked for the Carnegie (if my memories serves me right) Corporation and live there very long. I forget the details, “buying” the whole building on the northern end of WEA was different than “renting” an apartment in a multi-storied. For all almost 50 years I lived first briefly on WEA @ 84th then from 1966 @ WEA. I knew that it was no coincidence about who was able to get into a rental.
Now to get rid of all the scaffolding
Scaffolding may not be pretty but it is there to protect us. I don’t want to constantly look up for falling bricks and mortar.
Let’s not forgot that Joe DiMaggio and also lived at 400 west End Avenue
Who?
For a while that was the answer to the question “where have you gone, Joe DiMaggio?”
I remember in Keeping the Faith, from 1999, featuring Ed Norton (as a priest), Ben Stiller (as a rabbi) and Jenna Elfman (what happened to her?!?!), there is a scene when the rabbi realizes he has to chase Jenna’s character to the airport before she flies away somewhere. The scene where he realizes he has to run after her happens right outside the Christian Orthodox church on West End and W 91st, which in the movie is portrayed as a synagogue.
I loved that movie.
Jenna Elfman has never not been working. She’s done several movies and TV series, my favorite being Growing Up Fisher with JK Simmons.
Yes, one of the great underrated movies of the 90’s.
I know that ‘Fear the Walking Dead,’ isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but Jenna was a main character from 2018-2023. : )
You make me ache for the time I spent living at the Williams Residence for Seniors. It was at 720 West End Ave, which is now a super-expensive building. I spent hours walking up and down West End Ave. I still have photos in my phone of the Avenue at various times of year.
What a nice article! Perfect on a nasty day to conjure up walking West End. Sadly though the City has done much to destroy the beauty of so many previously wonderful streets with the never ending scaffolding. I just returned from London and Salzburg and no scaffolding in sight (except for new construction in London). The hatred of scaffolding unites all New Yorkers…with the exception of the scaffolding companies. What a bit that the City council doesn’t address this horrendous situation and make walking the streets of NYC fun again.
I’m a resident of West End Avenue for twenty five years, and I Love living in my area. I feel safe walking my dog after twenty AM. In addition to living in a concierge residence.
Two more to add to the West End Ave celebrities. Jill Clayburgh and her husband Dave Rabe lived for many years at 440 West End Ave.
I came to NY from a small coal mining town in Pennsylvania and WEA always seemed the be the epitome of urban grace and culture. I was very lucky to find an apartment–it opened upso many doors for me.
Loved Yvonne’s article! Thank you so much! Wonderful!
Other celebrities and films on WEA: Bernadette Peters, Jeffrey Toobin, and “Romancing the Stone,” where Kathleen Turner and Michael Douglas ride down the avenue in a sailboat. https://youtu.be/Jwfcbjd7U7I?feature=shared
A wonderful article. I recently moved here. How fortunate I am.
How many people know that you can stand in the middle of WEA at 102nd street ( with the light I hope) and, on a clear day, can see Todt Hill in Staten Island?
This is a beautiful piece.
Now i need to go out and explore this area again. I love this Rag…even though I’m not even close to the West Side! Worked up there once st Lowes and oft explored it. Your article paints a great picture. Thank you! Your friendly neighborhood explorer!
I remember that Streisand filming! I saw them doing it! I was living at 87th and WEA and grading papers at the Starbucks at 87th and Bway (the very first Starbucks in the city, btw). They were open until 1am at the time so I left and I was walking home, crossing WEA when I saw something down there, lights, vehicles, I had to go check on it. I didn’t see anything but I could hear Streisand’s voice complimenting the crew. (It wasn’t a very good picture, but I remember the whole experience. Thank you so much for mentioning it!)
I watched that too! We came out in the middle of the night. We lived at 515 WEA, right next door. Jeff Bridges and Barbra dancing in the street. Also in the opening scene of You’ve Got Mail, Meg Ryan walks right past 515.
Great work. There is a magic on west end Avenue that can’t be described in words and must be experienced on a sunny day especially a Sunday morning that really bring s warmth inside my heart and reminds me we still get somethings done right in the city Especially when the occasional stranger may even greet you with a friendly nod or even “hello.”
The people who live on West end avenue would never give up any of their precious road for a protected bike lane. That’s because of the conservative influence. Conservatives love their cars because they feel safe protected within a steel structure as they move about the city. They fight tooth and nail to prevent bike Lanes.
That’s why if you are at Riverside Park and you want to go south safely on a bicycle you have to go over due east five avenues to Columbus. That’s pathetic and that is sad.
Manhattan is dominated by conservative culture. As I said conservatives love their cars.
Wrong, there’s a bike lane IN Riverside Park that you can take.
Hi Marcus,
I’ve lived on the West Side my whole life.
I don’t drive (and actually old school friends still in Manhattan don’t drive either).
Also, per various data on voting and contributions to Democratic candidates, the West Side (let’s say zip codes 10023-10025) – including West End Ave – was and remains one of the most liberal areas in the U.S. (Yes as we all know, there are some changes with more and more super luxury buildings going up etc.)
There should be no bike lanes or bike infrastructure on West End.
Rather than bike, people can walk or take the bus or subway.
You should visit the West Side sometime. You will be in for many surprises.
Bikes and bike lanes are more are an age and ablest issue than a political one. And if you think Manhattan is a “conservative” place I’m gonna suggest you not cross the Hudson.
Ever.
BUT while you’re on the topic, you should understand that until about 12 years ago WEA was four lanes, with narrow parking lanes. The road has been calmed immensely, for good reason and with great result. And the existing 12′ parking lanes leave ample room for bikes and other two wheeled vehicles. I ride on it, on Riverside Drive, and for that matter on most of our one way side streets safely and with no need for a bike lane.
Let’s not forget the powerhouse director and comedic actor Penny Marshall who lived on West End for decades until her passing.
I grew up at 505 West End Avenue! My mother, Esther Hautzig, was a writer; my father, Walter Hautzig was a concert pianist. Downstairs in apartment 5C lived Estelle Parsons and her twin daughters Abby and Martha.. Across the street on the south-east corner, Alfred Uhry, the Tony-winning playwright, lived with his wife Jolly and 4 daughters. The Broadway and stage composer Robert Waldman, who often collaborated with Alfred Uhry, lived on West End between 81-82nd. Mary Soyer, daughter of the painter Raphael Soyer, lived at 800 West End Avenue. Anne Meara and Jerry Stiller lived on West End Avenue between 84th and 83rd. Lee Grant also lived on that block with her daughter Dinah Manoff.
I am CERTAIN I am forgetting people; if they come to mind I will write again. West End Avenue was filled with talent in all the arts. It was heaven to grow up there.
Please print this.
Oh, my! Thank you for all this info. Let me add a few more: the great theater critic, professor, scholar, and translator, Eric Bentley, lived at 711 West End Ave, and when she first moved to NY from San Francisco in the mid 60’s, Pauline Kael lived for a year diagonally across the street before finding her permanent place at 333 CPW a couple of streets over.
Also, when I was growing up, Barbra Streisand’s voice coach/accompanist Pete Matz lived next door to us on the 8th floor. The apartment was situated so that we could see into Pete’s living room window, and when Barbra was there singing (LOUDLY) my father, a concert pianist, found it impossible to practice.
Thank you for this wonderful list.
At the end of his life Jerry Stiller lived at the corner of 84th and Riverside – I would see him there periodically. I believe his son Ben briefly lived in the same building.
As I believe was noted in the original article, you grew up in the same building where Rachmaninoff lived – that building is quite the spot for pianists!
I believe there was a lengthy article here a few years ago when he died about Harry Belafonte’s majestic West End Ave. apartment.
A number of prominent journalists and authors also have lived on West End.
I live on West End and it is quite the NYC moment to hear music in the courtyards, whether it is a world class musician playing or singing or a child starting out with some offkey notes on the trumpet.
Oh, thank you! Yes, Rachmaninoff did live at 505. By the time I was born he was dead, but when my parents moved in in 1956, his wife was still living there. I forgot to add these names to my West End Avenue list: Rip Torn lived on East side of 84th–I think 500–with his actress wife Ann Wedgeworth and their daughter Denee Torn. Saul Bellow lived on 87th or 88th and West End and I rode the crosstown bus daily to school with his son Adam, who went to Dalton.One day in 1995 I went to 505 to visit my parents and saw the strangest thing: men on very tall ladders were pasting leaves to the bare branches of the tree in front of 505. It turned out that when the Barbra Streisand movie The Mirror Has Two Faces, the scene in the film took place in the Fall or the Spring or maybe even Summer, so there had to be leaves on the tree to make it seem authentic!
I live in the same building on WEA for 42 years. WEA is like Park Avenue of the west side….but even better. Quite.
Loved this article! My own story – when I was looking at apartments before moving here from DC, my mom (former West Sider herself) and I looked at some on WEA. I told her it seemed dull, and what I was trying to escape from Washington. She said, “once you live in Manhattan you may appreciate a quiet spot.” She was so right – I love turning off Broadway and finding the peace immediately.
Living on WEA is the best! It’s quiet but convenient to Broadway and shopping one block over and one block over to Riverside Park.
I’ve been jogging the length of WEA in the very early mornings (3:30 to 5:00am) for about 20 years. One of my life’s greatest joys.
Jules Pfeiffer, Harry Belafonte, Chico O’Farrill (father of Arturo who grew up on WEA)
Correction: Yvonne, Captain America was not created by Stan Lee (né Stanley Lieber); that honor falls to artist-writers Joe Simon (1913–2011) and Jack Kirby (1917–94). Lee had no involvement whatsoever in Cap’s creation and was at most the co-creator — along with Kirby (Iron Man), Steve Ditko (and to some murky extent Kirby) (Spider-Man), and Kirby again (Black Panther) — of the other characters mentioned.
The timeless, timely cover of “Captain America Comics #1”: https://www.comics.org/issue/1313/cover/4/ . (Trigger warning for the Nazis and Nazi-adjacent among us!)
Lee was born and lived his first four years in The Strafford, 777 West End Avenue.