The pepperoni pie at Mama’s Too.
The New York Times often criticizes the Upper West Side as a food desert. But the newspaper’s top reviewer struggled through the hot dry sand of the local food scene to find a pizzeria that he thinks is part of a “reawakening” of New York’s pizza scene.
Mama’s Too Pizzeria at 2750 Broadway between 105th and 106th Street opened late last year. We’ve been hearing lots of good things since. The secret to the pizza comes in how owner Frank Tuttolomondo lays down the cheese and sauce, according to Times reviewer Pete Wells.
“As they do at Totonno’s and some other brick-oven pizzerias, Mr. Tuttolomondo lays the cheese down before the sauce. Rather than drippy, milky discs of fresh mozzarella, though, he covers the raw dough (after priming it with olive oil) in shreds of a slice-friendly variety that is known in the trade as low-moisture mozzarella and that the rest of us call pizza cheese. Over this, he ladles a few blots of tomato pulp. This helps the crust to bake through without getting soggy, keeps the cheese from sliding off the crust, and most of all lets you taste the tomatoes, which are very good. You could, I suppose, think of the house slice as a white pizza with tomato-sauce topping.”
After it comes out of the oven, he sprinkles basil and Parmigiano-Reggiano onto the pie. The combination is so good, Wells says he “ripped into it like a pack of hyenas.” He likes the pepperoni slice in particular.
“Those bloodhounds who follow the city’s melted-mozzarella trail will recognize that Mama’s Too is part of a great reawakening of slice culture,” he writes.
Read the whole review here. And yes, it made us hungry too.