
By Yvonne Vávra
Every dog has its day. But this weekend, they get two. Today, at the Riverside Park Pup Halloween Parade, there’ll be sashaying, soaking up adoration, and snuffling their way through a sensory extravaganza. And treats galore. Tomorrow? Treats galore. Treats unleashed. Treats as the main event, in fact. Upper West Side businesses along Columbus Avenue and beyond will roll out the red carpet—in some cases, literally—and shower our dogs with treats, treats, and more treats.
A man who definitely deserves a whole lot of treats is Firat Ciftci, a Brooklyn-based software engineer who sent me down a delightful doggy rabbit hole this week with a digital map he created of every dog in New York City. Using city dog-license data, he mapped all 96,459 licensed dogs to the neighborhoods where they live, uncovering some fascinating findings. Turns out, the French bulldog boom ran out of steam in 2016, while doodles and other poodle mixes continue to climb in popularity. Thanks to Ciftci, we now know that the name Bernie saw a huge spike in 2016, when Bernie Sanders ran for president, and that Labradors top the list as the most common breed in 75 of the city’s 197 neighborhoods, more neighborhoods than any other breed.
We have 489 Labradors. Yes, nearly 500 of our 5,875 licensed Upper West Side dogs are Labs or Lab mixes. No other Manhattan neighborhood has more. And nobody has more Lunas, either. While Luna is the most common dog name in all of New York City, we’re leading the charts with 62 of them. A shoutout to our Charlies, though: at least south of 72nd Street, they outnumber the Lunas, 24 to 18.

One of our very good boys is my companion, Louie. He’s one of 234 Louies in the city and one of 702 Boston Terriers. According to the map, at almost 12, he’s older than 79% of the city’s licensed dogs and would blend in best in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. But that’s not where he belongs. That would be right here by my feet, where he’s been teaching me about life.
Louie went blind this year and lost an eye. Not that he’d care. Always focused on possibilities, never limitations, he’s forever forging ahead, following his instincts, and insisting on his right to run into walls. When I try to hold him back, he looks at me like, “Girl, what part of ‘we’re going THERE’ do you not understand?!” We’re bumping into obstacles, but we’re having fun.
It’s because of him that I’m discovering whole new worlds. I spend hours upon hours standing in the middle of any given block, waiting for him to finish checking out one stink or another. He’s a sniffer, you see. I never interrupt him, which is only fair, since he doesn’t stop me from watching my umpteenth episode of Whatever, either. And chances are that whatever he’s sniffing out around that little fleck of pee makes for a more compelling story than whatever I’m watching.
So there I am, doing a sometimes painful amount of nothing while waiting for him. Until it stops being painful. My mind lets go of the need to control my time and feels free to wander. It’s amazing what happens when you have nothing to do but be. I start noticing, observing, wondering. Because Louie? With a single sniff, he knows who was here before us, what they had for breakfast, whether they were stressed, sick, or horny, and who knows what else. Our block, the same one I know so well, is an entirely different world to him, one that remains obscure and inaccessible to me. What else do I not know about the things I know?
It’s nice to have your mind blown once in a while, and that’s the gift our dogs give us. Because would I ever stand in the middle of any given block, with nothing better to do than wonder about parallel universes, if I weren’t on a leash? Well, this is New York, so let’s not rule it out.
So here’s to all the good boys and girls of the Upper West Side, who will have no idea what day it is, why they’re wearing a wig, or why the world seems to have turned upside down, what with everyone shoving treats in their faces. As ever, they will not question our choices, wear their costumes with stoic resignation, and work the crowds. And come Sunday night, they’ll head home dog-tired, leaving their reviews of the festivities for generations of neighborhood dogs to come, one lamppost at a time.
Yvonne Vávra is a magazine writer and author of the German book 111 Gründe New York zu lieben (111 Reasons to Love New York). Born a Berliner but an aspiring Upper West Sider since the 1990s (thanks, Nora Ephron), she came to New York in 2010 and seven years later made her Upper West Side dreams come true. She’s been obsessively walking the neighborhood ever since.
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When I got my first puppy in 1990 I was encouraged to let him sniff everything – Equivalent to humans reading the NY Times.
“Stoic resignation” – so perfectly put!
This article made me realize I used to get email reminders from the Health Department to renew my dogs’ licenses, so I wonder how many dogs aren’t captured by the department’s data. I checked online, and sure enough, one of my dogs’ licenses expired in 2021, and the other in 2022. It’s $92 to renew them both (instead of $8.50 each if they weren’t expired) for “expired license fees.” So I won’t be renewing them, since I never got a notification, and although I certainly want to be a responsible citizen/dog owner, that’s unaffordable.
My Upper West Side Chihuahua mix Francis is seven, and my Pomapoo Sarah will be 16 on Valentine’s day.
I just got my renewal license.
Do you want a treat because you’re obeying the law? Woof!
So you’ve decided it’s okay to become an irresponsible citizen/dog owner due to your own negligence. Great.
You could probably go without a Starbucks or cupcake once in a while and I bet that $92 could maybe even appear quickly.
Yvonne, your weekly essays are always a treat and a joy to read. I hope you’re assembling them into a book. I would happily buy it.
Thank you for another beautifully- written story. Lately I’ve been so appreciative that my doggy doesn’t judge my small and messy apartment. She flounces around the joint, like it’s her own personal Versailles.
Excellent post. Your photos are amazing. Beautiful dogs.
In my own (very unscientific) observation, I do notice a decided decline in the number of Upper West Side Frenchies lately, but a concurrent increase in the dachshund population, and, interestingly, also that of the Jack Russell terrier (my favoritest breed!).
Yvonne’s story about Louie and what their relationship has brought into her life is beautifully written. It has integrity. The reader – at least this one – never doubts her words or sentiments about this very special companion. I know the feeling.