By Yana Krasnitskaya
There was a time in New York City when vegan restaurants were popping up left and right. The trend has cooled in recent years, but a few holdouts remain, including Peacefood, which has been serving what it describes as “home-style global vegan cuisine with gluten-free options” on the Upper West Side since 2009.
Though I’m neither vegan nor gluten free, I’m always interested in trying that type of cuisine, so on a recent visit to the restaurant, friends and I took advantage of the eclectic menu to order a bunch of random dishes to share, among them a vegan mac and cheese (with cashew cheese) that was topped with pesto, and the vibrantly colored “macho nachos” that turned out to be the crowd-pleaser in our group.
Nestled in a cavernous bowl, they were a pop of vibrant color, particularly on a dreary, rainy afternoon. The chips were thick and golden, arranged artfully at the bottom and along the edges of the bowl. But the true treasure lay in the middle: a generous portion of guacamole, red radish salsa, thick chunks of juicy tomato, red bean chili drenched in vegan cheese, and — I was surprised to see — a large helping of thickly cut black olives, which I’m more used to seeing on top of pizza or sprinkled on a Greek salad.
As soon as the nachos landed at our table, all four of us dug in. I didn’t know what to expect from the vegan cheese mixture but … drum roll please! … it tasted exactly like a good melted cheese. As I learned, Peacefood uses Daiya cheese, which is a popular dairy-free cheese brand made from ingredients like pea protein, tapioca starch and coconut oil. You can typically find it in your local supermarket. The texture was right on, as was the salt level. And when paired with the red bean chili and a dash of the radish salsa, it was a dynamite bite.
The chips also stood out — very sturdy, with two layers of crisp and that fried, corn flavor I associate with good-quality restaurant chips. (I’m still kicking myself for not asking the waiter which brand of chips the restaurant uses.)
All the nacho components so far were incredibly tasty but predictable. Not the black olives. From a texture perspective, they were definitely a replacement for the pickled jalapeno I’m more used to seeing on nacho plates, but I found myself going back for more because I also found that between the vibrant fresh tomatoes and the olives, they offered a much needed respite from the heaviness of the other toppings. Though perfectly lime-y and chunky, the guacamole in particular was heavy, and after a couple rounds of that with the cheese and beans, I craved the clean, earthy punch of flavor from the olive. It was the ideal palate cleanser, allowing me to go back for more, which is exactly what the four of us did throughout the meal.
In between sampling other dishes, the nachos remained a mainstay, with each of us sneaking in a chip or two and alternating between the various toppings. It reminded me that nachos are at their core a communal food, easy to nosh on between conversations or while watching a sporting event together, or — in our case — sitting in this cozy restaurant on a chilly Sunday.
Among the other dishes we tried, the mac and cheese with walnut pesto and a side salad ($18) was also a standout. Though a bit heavy, it’s genuine comfort on a plate. I recommend splitting it with a friend, (or three, as I did). The side salad that came with it was a delight – a simple mix of greens, cherry tomatoes, cucumber and shredded carrot, drizzled with a bright citrusy dressing that provided a welcome burst of flavor and helped balance out the dish.
Upon reflection, I could not believe the mac and cheese – as well as all the other dishes we tied – contained no egg or dairy whatsoever. Even if you’re not a vegetarian, or have no food-related allergies, I would encourage you to check out Peacefood. It was a fun and tasty experience, and I know I’ll be going back for those macho nachos very, very soon.
The Dish: Macho Nachos ($18)
The Restaurant: Peacefood, 460 Amsterdam Avenue (at 82nd Street). Open Sunday through Wednesday, 9:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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LOVE Peacefood’s fare. Order in, bec of the noise.