Here’s the UWS Dish: Buceo 95’s Picoteo

By Yana Krasnitskaya

It was a heavy, heavy summer evening when I visited the Spanish tapas and wine bar Buceo 95. The Knicks were on the cusp of victory, the U.S. men’s soccer team had just demolished Paraguay in their World Cup opener, and, as I would come to learn about 45 minutes into my meal, New York City was on the brink of a torrential downpour that would finally break the stifling humidity that had been hovering over the city for days.

This would be a good time to tell you, dear readers, that I’ve always been a bit lukewarm on tapas. I bristled at the idea of only having one bite of something, because inevitably I’d want more. In setting out to do this column, however, I told myself I’d be open-minded and boy am I glad I was.

Buceo 95 had come highly recommended (by my editor, no less!), and stepping inside the dark-wooded, cool interior, I immediately understood why. Their website did not lie – the small dining room, most of which was taken up by a large rectangular bar, really did feel like “a touch of Spain between Broadway and Amsterdam.” All the surrounding tables were high-tops, meant for two people or slotted together to accommodate groups – a perfect atmosphere to spark conversation.

The walls were brick and lined with bottles of wine, and on this particularly hot day, it felt like I’d been transported to another country. The menu was also an escape. Over 40 dishes, broken out by category: vegetables, seafood, and meat. I’m  a huge fan of anchovies, so the picoteo, ($6) which translates roughly to a “light nibble,” immediately caught my eye.

When it arrived, the dish stole my breath a little. Two pieces of the cured fish were speared neatly on a single skewer, slotted between plumb cherry tomatoes, green guindilla peppers that resembled miniature tree roots, a large green olive, and two mouthwatering chunks of manchego cheese. Artfully laid on a slab of black stone and decorated with confetti-like bits of chopped parsley and salt crystals, the presentation caught me by surprise. I was struck by how fun and whimsical it looked. And, spoiler alert, it tasted even better. The burst of sweetness from the juicy tomato paired incredibly well with the saltiness of the anchovy and the creaminess of the cheese. The pickled peppers added a nice bit of crunch that gave way to the earthy heartiness of the olive. It took me more than a “light nibble” to work through all the different flavors and textures; and I immediately ordered another one because I couldn’t wait to go on that journey again. I realize not everyone is a fan of anchovies but I wouldn’t let it deter you. The fish is subtle here and complimented well by the brightness of the pickled vegetables and savory cheese.

If that doesn’t appeal to you, there are many other wonderful tapas to choose from, like the hongos — pistachio-crusted mushrooms stuffed with goat cheese $15) — or the buñuelos de jamón — serrano ham and manchego cheese fritters ($14) — which come with a delightfully spicy dipping sauce.  Still, of all the things I tasted, the picoteo left the biggest impression on me. It’s a sublime way to start a meal at Buceo 95, especially when paired with a glass of the rich but incredibly drinkable Rioja ($14).

The history of tapas is a little murky. The actual word translates to “cover” or “lid” in Spanish, and the most famous origin stories date it back to  somewhere between the 13th and 16th centuries, when tavern owners would cover a drink with a small piece of bread, ham or cheese to keep it from dust or flies. Eventually, that became a snack that was served alongside the drink and the rest, as you would say, is history. Nowadays, tapas can be anything  –  crispy chunks of potatoes, perfectly fried croquettes, or slender pink shrimp dipped in garlic oil – but no matter what’s on your plate, the intention behind it is to partake in the experience with others and share both food and wine merrily.

Just as the skies opened up that evening, two lovely women came and sat down next to me. The tables were so close, I immediately joked that we’d be having dinner together. As it turned out, the joke was on me because that’s exactly what happened. Over a couple glasses of wine – I was on my second glass of the Rioja, they each on their first of the house rosé  — we chatted about the weather, the neighborhood, and of course, the restaurant.

“This place has been around forever,” one of them said. “Great place to get a bite before a show or to catch up with a friend.” I wondered if she knew that she just described the concept of tapas perfectly. Here we were, total strangers, enjoying a glass of wine, a light bite and leisurely conversation as we waited out the rain.

A little while later, after my third order of picoteo had arrived, she turned to me and asked, “Have you watched Heated Rivalry?”

I swallowed the delicious bite of olive, anchovy and cheese, took a healthy sip of wine, and nodded emphatically. Maybe I was starting to come around to the concept of tapas after all.

The Dish: Picoteo ($6)
The Restaurant: Buceo 95, 201 West 95th Street (between Amsterdam Avenue and Broadway). Open seven nights a week, from 5 p.m. to midnight.

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