By Abigael T. Sidi
In the spring of 2023, right about the time I started pitching stories to the Rag, I ran into an article on the website that both hit close to home and inspired me to become a better writer. In his weekly Weekend Column (now “West Side Canvas”), Robert Beck painted and wrote about used books in ways only he can – his readers will know exactly what I mean, and yes, I’m one of the ones who consider it blasphemous to discard a book.
So, when earlier this year, Beck sent me an email enigmatically entitled “a baguette,” I was both flattered and intrigued. In his message, Beck raved about 5 Napkin Burger’s turkey BLT; not only about the bacon (an ingredient he clearly adores), but even more specifically, about the baguette used in the sandwich.
Beck’s message first established credibility, with his characteristic style that always leaves a smile on my face (and the rest of me green with envy): “I lived on baguettes with ham and butter when I was in France, but I’m often disappointed everywhere else. Some of the ones on the UWS are criminally dense with a lingering taste of library paste. Like eating a life jacket.” Not in a million years could I have come up with better descriptors of your typical UWS baguette.
However, he continued, “the [5 Napkin Burger BLT] baguette had a golden, flaky crust and a light but moist crumb with a subtle sweetness. It was like food. The rest was delicious (bacon!), but I marveled at the baguette.” Enough read, I made my way to “5N” and gave the baguette BLT a try.
5N always wins me over with their complimentary side of thick kosher dill chips while you’re waiting for your meal. I was in a good mood when the BLT arrived and, indeed, the baguette looked absolutely the part, with a micro-bubbly, lizard skin-like crust so typical of classic Parisian baguettes. But before I took my first bite, I couldn’t help but check the sandwich’s layering, which according to my loyal reader Dino Vercotti, should be meats (bacon, turkey) on bottom, lettuce in middle, tomato on top (check his comment here). As caught on camera, 5N will have to deal with Dino’s wrath – lettuce on bottom, meats on top, and tomato in between.
The crunch on the BLT, as delivered by both the baguette and dark bacon, was nothing short of fabulous – a great bite, nicely balanced by the tender, juicy turkey-breast and tomato layers and crispy fresh iceberg. The mayo, slabbed on both sides of the sandwich, was well dosed and brought every ingredient home.
And so, yes, Beck was certainly right to single out the baguette, which by almost every metric hit like that of a French boulangerie. Crisp, golden crust and airy dough; it was amazing, perhaps only lacking in the very slight chewiness and yeastiness typical of the real thing. Asked about the sandwich and baguette, 5N manager Alberto Alvarez said that “Chef Andy [D’Amico] created it about 6 months ago; the baguette is from Tom Cat Bakery, and the sandwich is very popular.”
Tom Cat Bakery is first and foremost a wholesale supplier for many NYC restaurants, but you can order their baguettes online and buy some of their breads, including their acclaimed Japanese milk bread, via Fresh Direct. (If Tom Cat’s name sounds familiar, it’s because the bakery was at the epicenter of a 2017 immigration protest called a “Day Without Bread” early in the first Trump Administration, after Homeland Security announced it was conducting an audit of bakery employees’ documentation. “Tom Cat’s workers are a canary in Trump’s coal mine as ICE intensifies its deportation drive,” The Nation wrote at the time, “with a sharp rise in arrests of immigrants without criminal records reported in the New York region.”)
5 Napkin Burger has been around since 2008, when chef D’Amico and co-owner Simon Oren decided that the eponymous burger that they had been serving at Nice Matin had reached such levels of popularity that it deserved its own restaurant. The burger, a mammoth 10-ounce juicy beef patty topped with Gruyère cheese, caramelized onions, and rosemary aioli, is as messy and delicious as ever and is definitely worth the trip. I also love their fries, and had a small portion ($4.50) to go along with my BLT (an excuse to get my hands on a side of the killer rosemary aioli, which I used to both dip my fries and add to my BLT, highly recommended!)
The restaurant is open and bright, very welcoming, and feels like a cross between a French brasserie and an American diner. Oh, and it also has a sushi bar! It is open Monday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. til 10:00 p.m, on Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., on Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., with take-out and delivery available at those times. Vegetarian options, including a veggie burger, are also available.
The Dish:
Turkey BLT Baguette ($16.50)
The Restaurant:
5 Napkin Burger: 2315 Broadway (corner of West 84th Street)
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Thank you.
This does look yummy.
But did not realize that 5 Napkin has switched to crinkle fries? They used to have hand-cut.
We are huge fans of the BLT at Fairway Cafe.
Fairway has good fries as well
Yes – the fries actually look a little sorry?
Hi Jo wase and thanks for your comment. The fries are crispy and have decent fluffiness and taste. But more than anything, they’re a great excuse for dipping into 5N’s rosemary aioli, which they also use in the burger. They’ll provide the aioli for 50 cents extra, so a total of $5 for small portion plus aioli
Not a funny story, but I potentially could have forced this place to close on its second day.
I went to the grand opening evening evening there, and ordered a few things (I like to “taste” things, so I order four or five things and take home what I don’t eat).
One of the things I ordered was a dumpling, which I THOUGHT was going to be soft. Unfortunately, under that misimpression, I bit off about half of it and tried to chew it, but realized to late that it was hard. But I tried to swallow it anyway – without realizing it was also sharp, and was NOT going to get down my throat.
I started choking, couldn’t breathe, and became frightened, convinced I was going to die right there on their floor on their opening night. Thankfully, I remembered an old trick my mom used when my younger brother swallowed a whole piece of ice and started choking. I grabbed a cup of hot tea from the next table (I couldn’t worry about their reaction), and began allowing it to pour slowly down my throat. It softened the dumpling quickly enough to be able to swallow what was stuck. (I later explained to the family at that table what had happened, and they simply showed serious concern about whether I was alright.)
My throat hurt for days after that (the edges of the dumpling really were sharp!), but I escaped the indignity of dying in the restaurant on its opening night.
I never told the owners or staff what happened. And yes, I have been back since and had many a nice meal. And yes, I am sometimes very stupid.
Very NY. Failed to exercise caution, compounded the error, then you gracefully didn’t punish the vendor for your failures. Then humblebrag on wsr. Classic.
Hi Ergo, thanks for your comment. I for one enjoy the humblebrags on the Rag, part of the charm!
I don’t think you gulping your food and choking would have caused them to shut down. It wasn’t their fault.
That baguette looks legit!
Also a big fan of Beck’s, you write a little like him, can see the influence
Hi Dan: that’s high praise, thank you!!
Is there a reason why my comments are never posted? Just curious as to why I am being censored. I have to assume it is because I don’t always kowtow to obvious UWS political bent.
But I’m still going to head over to 5NB for that BLT.
Wait a minute, who let Janet in? Security!!!!!
This sandwich looks absolutely mouth-watering! That golden, crispy baguette with the “lizard skin-like crust” paired with the dark bacon and layers of turkey – I can almost taste the crunch through the screen. Love how you called out the Tom Cat Bakery connection too – it’s great to know where to get quality baguettes in the city. Definitely adding this to my must-try list!
Hi Triple: thanks for your comment and kind words. I’ve never been able to find their baguettes but a commenter and my parents claim they were once sold at Fairway. Someone also found them at Whole Foods a while back, I’ve been told. But you can order them online
Whenever I’m craving the kind of mediocre food available at a shopping mall’s “premium” restaurant options (ex. California Pizza Kitchen, P.F. Chang’s), I’m reliably disappointed by this 5 Napkin Burger joint.
A BLT is one of my favorites but this a time of year it’s hard to get a good T.
I hope it was fresh turkey not some kind of processed deli meat. Fresh turkey is hard to slice thinly, though.
As a side note, why oh why does every restaurant have to add sushi to their menu? We’re in NYC, people. It’s not like you’re the only restaurant for miles so you have to appeal to everyone and encourage repeat visits.
Even stranger, why would anyone order sushi there?
Hi Huh: that’s a good question, was wondering about that as well. But from the looks of the bar (which is open to the dining room, in the back) and their website, it looks like they’re really pushing this.
Nice and pleasant surprise to read about a place selling excellent parisian baguettes. Being myself disappointed with mostly everything available I started baking baguettes at home. Not easy, but also not impossible.
Hi Victor N, yes that’s how Beck got me interested into the place! You can order them online, and good baguettes can also be found at Millefeuille and Breads.
I’ve tried it but I just don’t think baguette, even a good one like this one, works for BLT. Mouth too wide, too much chewing and crunch going on. I’ll have Kossar’s on a bialy every day of the week over this one (I remember you covered it, too).
Is dark meat available?
Sliced white turkey meat doesn’t have much flavor.
Yes, Tom Kat is good bread, Soltner used it at Lutece, and years ago it was available at Fairway, when Fairway was a good store.