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Mouthwatering New Exhibition Opens at New-York Historical Society

November 12, 2022 | 6:03 AM
in ART, FOOD, HISTORY, NEWS
12
Kugel (a model), called “the holy national dish…of Judaism”

By Meg A. Parsont and Daniel Katz
Photographs by Meg A. Parsont

“I’ll have what she’s having.” This iconic line from When Harry Met Sally instantly transports us to a table at Katz’s Delicatessen where Meg Ryan’s/Sally’s ecstatic exclamations convince a fellow diner that the pastrami sandwich clearly isn’t to be missed. Clips from the movie are just one of the many delights on the menu at “I’ll Have What She’s Having”: The Jewish Deli, an exhibition that has just opened at New-York Historical Society.

Five years in the making, the exhibition, organized by the Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles, reveals how Jewish delicatessens became a cornerstone of American food culture, and delves into the cultural significance of what has become the quintessential New York cuisine.

“Food is a wonderful vehicle for cultural exchange,” says Dr. Louise Mirrer, president and CEO of New-York Historical Society. Co-curator Lara Rabinovitch, a specialist in immigrant food cultures, adds, “Deli, is, of course, a New York tradition and an American story. It tells the story of adaptation and resilience.”

As the press release notes, this exhibition explores how Jewish immigrants from Central and Eastern Europe imported and adapted traditions to life in the New World to create a cuisine that became the cornerstone of popular culture with worldwide influence.

Exhibits and signage explore the origins and evolution of the Jewish deli, starting with 3 million Jews who came to the US between 1880-1924, many of whom settled on the Lower East Side and opened humble food businesses that morphed into restaurants where foods from various regions were all served under one roof for the first time. From pickles and pastrami, knishes and borscht to smoked fish, bagels, and babka, these foods from Central and Eastern Europe became the staples of the Jewish deli in the United States.

As the exhibit progresses, it delves into the heyday of the deli between the World Wars, introduces us to Holocaust survivors who found community—and often employment—in delis, and delis in popular culture. The displays range from the poignant—a worn suitcase and pair of brass candlesticks belonging to immigrants around the turn of the last century—to the delightfully kitschy, including neon signs and vintage clocks that once adorned the walls of popular delis in LA, Chicago, and New York.

Mrs. Maisel’s style next to vintage waitress uniform.

There are also costumes from The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, vintage deli workers’ uniforms, an original bottle of Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda, menus, advertisements, and even a miniature model of Katz’s Delicatessen.

Photograph in the show by Stephen Harmon, whose work appears often in WSR.

There are photographs of immigrants in the 19th century around a communal table, beloved eateries that are now shuttered including Fine & Shapiro Kosher Delicatessen on the Upper West Side, and a surprising appearance by Guns ‘N’ Roses at the Kibitz Room bar, adjoining Canter’s Deli in LA. And of course there are clips from the movie that inspired the name of the exhibition!

* * *

Food for Thought from ”I’ll Have What She’s Having”: The Jewish Deli

“Delicatessen” is a German word that loosely translates to “a place to find delicious things to eat.”

The German poet Heinrich Heine called kugel the “holy national dish…of Judaism.”

A pastrami sandwich cost .95 in 1961. Today it costs about $25.95.

In the 1930s there were close to 3,000 delis throughout New York City; today only about a dozen remain.

* * *

Laura Mart, co-curator of “I’ll Have What She’s Having”: The Jewish Deli, says, “What’s more joyful than delicious food?” This exhibit is a testament to the joy Jewish deli food has brought generations of Americans, and to the enduring appeal of this timeless cuisine. Warning: Be prepared for an irrepressible craving for a pastrami sandwich upon leaving the building!

Plan a visit:
On view from November 11, 2022-April 2, 2023
New-York Historical Society
170 Central Park West at 77th Street
https://www.nyhistory.org/exhibitions/ill-have-what-shes-having-the-jewish-deli

WSR showcases serious writers, like Daniel Katz and Meg A. Parsont.
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12 Comments
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MJB
MJB
6 months ago

There was an absolutely wonderful deli close to Twin Towers. My first introduction to pastrami, their sandwiches were out of this world. Decent price also.

1
Reply
geoff
geoff
6 months ago
Reply to  MJB

there is still very good pastrami—not too fat, not to lean—available across the street from me and NOT expensive. i buy a quarter and three bagels for around $11 and have sandwiches for three days. i have to get there before 10am because the lineup is soooo long for takeout.

0
Reply
Marvin
Marvin
6 months ago
Reply to  geoff

Pastrami on a bagel? No way! 😱

0
Reply
Cato
Cato
6 months ago
Reply to  Marvin

— “Pastrami on a bagel? No way!”

It’s OK with enough ketchup, or mayo if that’s your preference.

0
Reply
carol in nyc
carol in nyc
6 months ago
Reply to  Cato

@ Cato Hahahaha. We know you are kidding.

0
Reply
MJB
MJB
6 months ago
Reply to  geoff

Where is it?

6
Reply
Francesca
Francesca
6 months ago

Did Storico add a few Jewish items to its menu, or was that a leap too logical?

1
Reply
NotImpressed
NotImpressed
6 months ago
Reply to  Francesca

One can easily look at the menu on their website.
They did add three items – matzo ball soup, smoked salmon platter, and a pastrami reuben.

0
Reply
Ruth
Ruth
6 months ago
Reply to  Francesca

Yes:
https://storicorestaurant.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/NYHS_Storico_JewishDeli_Menu_5x7_110722_Web.pdf

0
Reply
Huh
Huh
6 months ago
Reply to  Ruth

Their “Rueben” (sic) has pastrami instead of corned beef, and cole slaw along with the sauerkraut.
Oy.
I would gave preferred to see a popup from a real NYC deli.

0
Reply
Sally Sacks
Sally Sacks
6 months ago

No mention of Barney Greengrass?

0
Reply
Huh
Huh
6 months ago
Reply to  Sally Sacks

Barney Greengrass is an appetizing store, not a deli. Two great traditions but different,( like Chinese dim sum versus hot pot restaurants. )
I hope the exhibit makes the proper distinction, but since Storico has added a smoked salmon platter to its “Jewish deli” menu, I’m not hopeful

4
Reply

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