By Abigael T. Sidi
Three weeks ago, I divulged that my dad squeezes French fries inside Café du Soleil’s merguez sandwich to recreate the “Merguez/Frites,” a tailgating classic at French soccer games. As much as I hated to admit it, and despite the outrage to any semblance of a healthy diet, his technique took the sandwich to a whole other level of deliciousness.
It turns out the Greeks often use the same twist on their national sandwich, the iconic gyro, where the mixing of the fries with the protein inside the pita results in something called a “tylikta.” I tried it at Yasouvlaki’s Upper West Side outpost and there you had it: a sandwich from the gods.
Whether you’re having Middle Eastern shawarma or Turkish döner kebabs, most meat/pita sandwiches prepared using a the vertical rotisserie will offer chicken or lamb as protein. The Greek gyro (meaning “circle,” or “turn,” and pronounced hero) uses the same cooking technique but is often made of pork. So, when it came to trying Yasouvlaki’s tylikta, that’s what I had.
Yasouvlaki’s pork gyro tylikta, served with the classic tzatziki/lettuce/tomatoes/red onions toppings, is a monster of a sandwich. The homemade pita is thicker and breadier than Middle Eastern varieties, and the addition of the hand-cut fries sends the whole thing over the top. A single tylikta will be plenty for a meal, and be forewarned: You may need a quick post-sandwich nap.
Digging in, I first sampled the meat. I was struck by the freshness and depth of the porky flavors, accentuated around the edges thanks to the beautiful caramelization enabled by the rotisserie cooking. It was juicy, yes, but the meaty flavor was what stood out, and the tart creaminess of the tzaziki paired with it beautifully. (Note that the tzatziki is very much of the authentic type, in which the yogurt – not the garlic, cucumbers or herbs – is the dominant flavor.)
Next, I sampled the fries. Hand cut, crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and most distinctively, seasoned with thyme and oregano: fantastic, an easy 9/10. As with the pork, the fries paired perfectly with the tzatziki (although, how would anything not pair well with this tzatziki? ) I suspected there might have been a sprinkle of lemon zest there, too, enhancing the citrusy herbs. Regardless, they were incredibly tasty and delicious.
Lastly, I went for the full bite. And as with Dad’s merguez/frites, the sandwich turned into final boss territory. The pork juices, the fries’ citrusy starch, the creamy yogurt, the fresh lettuce and tomatoes, the crunchy red onions and the soft pita bread, all combined into a decadent, absolutely succulent mouthful. It’s was if all these ingredients had been made for each other in yet another real-life example of the sum being greater than its parts. Taking Dad to this place ASAP!
Yasouvlaki’s tylikta can be had in variety of ways. In addition to the pork gyros, protein offerings include chicken gyros, souvlaki (grilled skewers of pork, chicken, salmon, swordfish or shrimp), kefta (spicy beef paddies), falafel, and loukaniko (Greek sausage seasoned with fennel seed, dry herbs and orange peel). Having had the opportunity to sample each of the meats as part of a “mixed grill” we had ordered for a dinner party, I can vouch for all of them. The chicken gyros and souvlaki, in particular, had a beautiful char with lemony undertones and are juicy beyond belief, while the kefta (Turkish in origin) had real spicy complexity and depth.
Each of the tyliktas can be ordered alone ($14) or as part of a lunch special ($21) which also includes a salad and soda (or coffee or tea). The salad can either be the mixed greens (“prasani”) or traditional Greek (“xoriatiki”) with tomatoes, cucumbers and red onions topped with crumbled feta cheese. While I haven’t tried the prasani, the xoriatiki is fresh, crunchy and generous, with a wine-vinegar-based dressing that balances the flavors nicely while not overshadowing the veggies.
Yasouvlaki, Georgios Kantaris’ sister operation to his Upper East Side restaurant of the same name, is located on Amsterdam Avenue between West 88th and 89th streets. It offers an open, large and bright layout (thanks to the large windows) that is tastefully decorated for a elegant but unpretentious Greek vibe. The restaurant is very calm, with almost imperceptible Greek music playing in background. It is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every day (10 p.m. on Saturdays). Take out and delivery available at these times.
The Dish: Pork Gyro Tylikta ($14)
The Restaurant: Yasouvlaki, 594 Amsterdam Avenue (between West 88th and 89th streets)
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Thank you for these!!
This looks delicious! Thank you, Abigael, for finding great food in the neighborhood for us to try!
FYI: On the menu when you dine at Yasouvlaki in the restaurant, it’s spelled Horiatiki, not Xoriatiki.
yum!
Next, do the everything burrito with fries! I’m sure someone figured they should offer that on their menu
Kudos (a Greek word) to Yasouvlaki for the casual but attractive decor and especially the “almost imperceptible Greek music.” I’ve walked out of restaurants where the music was thumping so loud that it induced a headache and made conversation impossible. Looking forward with pleasure to trying this one.
Finally, a sit down restaurant in the neighborhood with reasonable prices and good food!
I avoid places that say the fries are handcut.
Also, pita (or as I knew it growing up in Vermont where there’s a large Lebanese/Syrian population, Syrian Bread) is supposed to be very thin and chewy, not puffy and crumbly.
So basically nothing like “pita” in the USA — with some outlier exceptions.
Nothing wrong with “handcut” fries. The secret is to double fry them. Otherwise, you’ll get limp, soggy fries. This is probably what you’re used to. It’s not that the fries were “handcut” that was making them lousy, it’s that whomever was cooking and serving them didn’t know WTF they were doing.
Also, the author specifically stated in her article that these pita were the thicker, Greek variety which is appropriate for a gyro – not the thinner, mid-eastern ones.
Steven M,
No, I’m used to crisp fries. Have had really soggy Halal Cart fries, terrible falafel too — nothing to do with this restaurant though.
So you know Vermont Lebanese/Syrian style pita. There are many countries that have different versions all equally authentic.
No, you see the bread is supposed to be made sans added yeast. So what I grew up with is correct and the puffy stuff from wherever is wrong.
Learn a bit about traditional bread baking.
Learn a bit about sandwich making. The Tylikta would not hold up with a thinner pita.
It’s weird that you’re so certain there’s only one correct type of pita, instead of acknowledging that the bread traveled across borders and has long been adapted into different forms. The word pita can be, and is, correctly applied to both. If you’re expecting a non-Greek pita in a Greek restaurant, that’s on you.
I’m certain, because I understand how to make bread without added yeast. Which is how bread was made for thousands of years before Fleishman’s, etc.
This sandwich is excellent. Hope this place continues to thrive.
Isn’t “gyro” in Greek pronounced “yee-ro”? You know with a Y sound? Any Greeks here care to weigh in on this?
Greek here. Yes, correct, in Greek it is pronounced “yee-ro”. When I order in Greek I ask for “yee-ro” otherwise, gyro, which is so common and everyone know it.
“Sandwich from the gods”, exactly. This baby is so perfect and addictive, anyone who hasn’t tried it doesn’t know what they’re missing. Their lunch deal is great, you save like $10.
Bookmarking this restaurant.
This is a fun series, more of this please!
Can you get it without the fries…please?
Yum! Technically, the plural of tylikta is not tyliktas, because tylikta is already a word in the plural. The singular is tylikto. And the “k” is technically not a K, it’s a “ch” sound that we don’t really have in English. But who’s picking when it tastes so good? Kind of like complaining that there is no such thing as one “panini.”
You mean panino! Apparently anyone ordering a panini is requesting multiple sandwiches.
I had the pork souvlaki tylikto today, and a friend had chicken. We liked! I’ll be back.
YaSouvlaki on the Upper West Side is a gem for anyone craving fresh, flavorful Greek food. I ordered the pork gyro, chicken soup, and Greek salad, and each dish impressed me. The pork gyro was tender and well-seasoned, with just the right amount of char and a generous portion of toppings. The chicken soup was hearty and comforting, perfect for a chilly day, and the Greek salad was crisp, vibrant, and loaded with fresh vegetables and tangy feta. The atmosphere is relaxed but stylish, making it a great spot for both casual meals and catching up with friends. Service was friendly, prompt, and attentive without feeling rushed, which added to the overall pleasant dining experience. It’s clear the team here takes pride in what they serve, and it shows in the quality of the food and the care they put into their guests’ experience. Highly recommend!